Re: FIRST DAK MOD?

From: Gary Shook (gary.shook@wcom.com)
Date: Thu Jul 22 1999 - 16:39:18 EDT


I agree that 52 is probably overkill for a bolt-on mod... for that matter, I
believe that F&B's test revealed no significant gain on a 5.9L from opening
up the bores from the stock size, as long as you remove the stonehenge
blocks (shave top), polish the bore and thin the shaft significantly... My
truck is a 4x4, so I don't want to sacrifice any low end... I have the 5.9L,
but I prefer the F&B stage 1 since everyone else opens up the bores... I
wonder if they've done any testing to verify if that actually improves
performance, or if they just started by opening up the bores...

I believe it's very easy to go too far witht this mod... and cost yourself
too much low end, without much gain in top end (over a modified, but
non-bored T/B)

(sound of soap box sliding away)

Gary Shook

>I don't think so. On a 318 the 50mm would probably be the best
>for overall power. You may lose a tiny bit on the low end but I
>doubt it. I'm gonna' put a 50mm on my R/T because I think that
>the 52mm is too big until you start modifying heads, intake etc.
>It should give a hefty increase throughout the band. I would say
>that the 52mm is too large for a 318, and although you would have
>big gains in the upper RPM's you would lose alot on the low side,
>and that's where these motors excel. If I were you I'd do the
>50mm and a nice intake system. It would definately be a good
>start. After that, start thinking cat-back and headers.
>
>Ryan K
>'99 R/T RC
>
>Will wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the info. That is one large drop for his ET!. Do you think
there
>> are any negative efffects of changing the TB to a 50mm?
>>
>> Will



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