> Now, at 24k miles my brakes are squeaking everytime I apply them so I
>guess it's time for new pads? I've never done them before and I'd like to
>have a go of it. So.... what do I do?! :-) Replacing the pads looks
pretty
> straight forward but what do I look for to see if the rotor is ok? Do I
need >to get a micrometer or any other specialized tools? Do I need to
bleed the >fluid lines just to do the pads?
Sorry this took so long Tom, but here goes the very simple method of front
pad replacement. I hope you ahve a shop manual also to help guide you
through this. This is how I do it atleast: The only, yes only, time you need
to have the rotors turned is if the pads wore down so far the metal
rivets/pad housing starts to dig into the rotors. I have had my front
rotors(still factory ones!!) turned 3 times now and they are still within
factory /safety specs. You dont have to bleed the front brakes either,
inless if course you have to replace a brake caliper, brake lines, etc. Just
be sure not to touch the brake pedal itself when doing the brake job and you
wont have to bleed them. Jack the front end op, take both front tires off,
be sure to support with jackstands, a jack itself is not wise. First off,
inspect both the inner and outer pads on both sides of your Dak to clarify
if they really do need replacing. If they do, continue reading on. I suggest
also to put on side one at a time, so you have the other side for reference
incase you get confused. There should be 2 capiler/slide bolts which hold
the each rotor onto the ront spindle, take these out carefully and get some
good thick lube(I love SylGlid) to lube them up with when you put them back
on, otherwise the caliper cant slide good and they will rust in. Take the
caliper up off the rotor, might need to bang/tap it off with a small hammer,
but usually not. Retract the caliper's piston using a LARGE C-clamp, being
sure not to damage the rubber seal on the caliper which forces the pad onto
the rotor. I like leaving the old inner pad on and using them as the plate
to help retract the caliper's piston into its housing to get an even
retraction of the piston. Doing this will create more room for the new thick
pads. I love and use Raybestos Pads for my Dak, dont cheap out here either
and get lifetime pads. I spend $28 on the front pads some 4 1/2 years ago
and havent bought them since, smae goes for the rear shoes. Lifetime pads
are the way to go.Be sure not to kink the caliper brake line, I like to use
milk crates to lay them on when I am taking them off, so I dont damage the
line at all. Pop off the inner and outer pads, pop on the new ones, and
reinstall the caliper with the pads onto the rotor. Make sure you dont need
to turn the rotors once again. Put the caliper bolts back in and you are
done really. Check the brake fluid, and some may some out of the master
cylinder when you are retracting the piston, cleap it up and you are done.
This really should take about 1 hour max, for both sides. I am sure you dont
need a new caliper or anything else, so it it really easy and
straight-forward Tom. No special tools or anything are needed for the front,
just some lube for the bolts, some brake fluid, and a socket/torx head for
the caliper bolts. Also, if the caliper bolts are not smooth and show wear,
pay $6 and get all new ones. I just had to do this at 115,000 miles, so I
doubt you will have to. Let me know if you need more help, sorry it took so
long. It is easy to do man, and I am not AE tech by any means. I hope I
remembered everything :)
Kyle
93 Dakota 4x4 V6
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