Tom, I have a 9" cone setup on my '99 with 318 engine.
I had the filter hooked up to one of those stainless steel
mandrel bent tubes which hooked to the rubber flex hose
coming from the air hat. Well, one day I decided to play
and removed the rubber flex hose and SS tube --replaced it with
a couple rubber couplers, 45 deg elbows and straight piece of 3" ABS
pipe. WOW, what a difference that made. On these engines
its all about the air temperature (density) and air velocity
(as well as turbulence). Basically the flex rubber hose
causes a whole lot of turbulence slowing down the incoming
air flow. By increasing your incoming air velocity (and total volume)
and keeping the temp down, you can make the computer give the engine
more gas..making more HP. Ok simplistic view but it works.
My $.02 hook your cone filter up with parts
from hardware store. Get a couple of 45 degree
elbows, straight ABS pipe, and a couple rubber
couples (all in plumbing section of larger stores)
and go for it....about $10 in parts.
Ja
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Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 19:12:18 -0500
From: fawcett@uism.bu.edu <mailto:fawcett@uism.bu.edu>
Subject: DML: Cold-Air Intake
VERY specific question (I don't want to start the whole debate over again)!
I've seen some home-made intakes that re-use the stock flexible rubber
fitting
that attaches to the air hat and some that run a pipe right up to the air
hat... Is there a consensus or explanation why one would be better than the
other? It looks like it would be easier to use the rubber fitting.
I got my K&N cone filter today and I'm just trying to figure out the best
way
to rig it.
TIA!
Tom
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