>I do some racing, but it's a daily driver. I still want it to be
>comfortable and driveable in bad weather. I don't have access to a Dyno
>or anything, just because I don't think the truck will make it to the
>nearest Dyno... it vibrates really bad at any speed... and idle.. it's
>about gone...
>I would do what you siuggested as far as the brake thing, but I don't
>have a tach....
>
>does a stall really effect driveability that much? I mean, if I'm goin to
>have to make a compromise like not drive it in the rain, or have to take
>off at 2000 rpms at every stop light, then I don't think a stall is where
>I'm comin' from...
>
>this is startin' to suck =(
>
>-mike d.
Well I was figuring more for racing, got carried away. For stock street,
with maybe a chip/computer, filter, cat-back, and headers, go with a
converter with a stall maybe 300 to 500 RPMs over the stock stall. Find
the stock stall like I posted earlier, if you have a tach. Any other way
you need a transbrake to find the stall speed.
Putting on free flow exhaust system, adding a FIPK or whatever custom job
you want, and a larger throttle body will decrease low end power. What
those mods will do is move the power band of the engine up. Installing a
higher than stock stall converter will be beneficial in that case because
peak torque will be developed at a higher RPM than the stock configuration.
Do those mods and put in a hotter cam and do some minor intake and head
porting and you'll be messing your pants.
If no major mods have been done then going with a high stall converter for
street use is not ideal. Around town driving will be a waste of gas as the
engine will be winding up higher than a stock setup. You can get away with
a few hundred RPMs higher stall than stock, but don't over do it as you
will regret it.
Mike
__________________________
mschwall@flash.net
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jun 20 2003 - 11:47:01 EDT