Well put. There no rules of thumb. We're all just guessing how far we can
take this stuff. Sometimes we go over the line and break stuff. Sometimes we
get away with running a 150 shot through our engines for a year and still
have no noticeable signs of engine wear. Anyone can make their truck fast,
it's a matter of who can afford to make it fast again after they pick up
their connecting rods off the track.
Joe W.
98 Dakota 13.1
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Schwall <mschwall@flash.net>
To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 10:22 PM
Subject: Re: DML: NOS System with Blower
> Hyperutectic pistons are very brittle. Forged is the only thing to run
> with power adders that increase combustion temperature and pressure like
> NOS and forced induction. Strength of stock cranks depend on engine size
> and the actual manufacture of the engine. Castings vary so much between
> manufacturers, I couldn't give you an exact HP figure that the stock mopar
> crank could handle. As for rods, not all rods are the same. Even though
> one set may be forged, that doesn't mean their stronger than a prepped set
> of cast rods. One set of forged rods could be weaker than another forged
> set. All depends on the type of material used and quality of the
> forging. If the material is poor or not enough force was used in the
> forging process, stress cracks and risers can form causing weak spots,
then
> bam!! You cry over your loss.
>
> I could type till my finger tips were numb about the dangers and what
needs
> to be done to a motor to make it run reliably with lots of nitrous and/or
> forced induction. It's a lot of stuff that is involved, and it would make
> this email a book.
>
> You can always run 10+ psi and/or 100+ HP of nitrous on a stock motor and
> hope is stays together. Hope the oil pump can keep the oil volume and
> pressure high enough to prevent bearing failures, and hope the torsional
> stress on the stock crank doesn't get out of hand and cause stress
> fractures which means a broken crank. Hope your stock harmonic balancer,
> which was designed for low RPM use, can still provide enough dampening at
> high RPMs to prevent harmonic vibrations from destroying the main bearings
> or cracking/breaking the crank. Hope the rod bolts and big-end side of
the
> rods are strong enough to prevent stress cracks and breaking. Depending
on
> the bolts size and bolt head shape, and if the rods are spot faced or not,
> the bolts are usually the first to fail. And hope the stock main bolts
> provide enough clamping force to prevent main cap separation, which then
> causes bearing failure, then crank failure. Not to mention valvetrain
> components. Hope the stock springs are strong enough to prevent valve
> float at the higher rpms. Hope your exhaust valves can handle the
> increased heat without burning them. Or you can just run the crap out
of
> it till it fails, then dig into your pocket and buy all over again. All
> depends on how wisely you spend your money. As the old saying goes, speed
> costs money, how fast can you afford to go?
>
> Mike
>
> __________________________
> mschwall@flash.net
>
>
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