That's not correct for our application.
Turn the engine until both valves are closed (TDC) on, let's use cylinder
#1. Now loosen both nuts on the rockers. Now turn the nut slowly tighter
while spinning the pushrod and lifting it slightly up and down. Once you
feel the slack (up and down) disappear, that should be 0 lash. Turn the nut
just a bit more (1/4 turn) and your done with that rocker. Now...do the
rest but remember to have them at TDC.
- Bernd
----- Original Message -----
From: <Dester223@aol.com>
To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2000 1:35 AM
Subject: Re: DML: RE: dude. help is needed bad!
> So you're basically saying that the 20 foot pounds of torque isn't right?
I
> was looking through the archives and feeler gauges are needed? something
to
> the effect of adjusting valve lash to .004 or .001 for the correct valve
> lash?
>
> -Dester
>
> PS. I have 160+85.= 245 total. plus a bruised ego.
>
>
> << How much $$$ do you have into this so far???
>
> Anyway... try this..
>
> Remove the valve covers, and pull all of your plugs out.
>
> Rotate the engine by the crank pulley until the TDC mark is
> the timing mark (after the #1 Cyl exhaust port has closed. Once
> that happens, tighten the rocker until you have a resistance
> between the nut/stud, then continute 1/2-3/4 turn. Lock the
> nut with the allen set screw. Tighten the intake rocker the same
> way, then rotate the engine another 90 degrees *You'll see a timing
> mark again-- it's marked every 90 degrees*... The next cyl in the
> firing order (it's marked on your intake manifold) will have finished
> closing the exhaust port. Tighten in the same manner as the #1 cyl for
> exhaust/intake rocker. Then rotate engine another 90 degrees, and set
> next cyl (again in firing order sequence)... continue for all 6 cyl...
>
> Replace the plugs, wires, and valve covers... Start the truck.
>
> Sam
> >>
>
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