Not bolts, dowel pins! Bolts are for clamping, dowels for location ;)
Degreed mechanical engineer also.
-- Mac>From: Clay Cooke <cooke@ecn.purdue.edu> >Reply-To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net >To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net >Subject: Re: DML: Info on turning part of my truck bed into an extended >cab >Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 22:19:47 -0500 (EST) > > >Many people I know of have done something very similar. They cut out a >section of the back of the cab just under the rear window and then do the >same in the bed. This is done for numerous reasons, most of which being >access to the bed and for stereo. Usually nothing is done to strengthen >the area, but if you wanted to the idea provided by Mike makes good sence. >Im a mechanical engineer too :) if that makes any difference! > >Also, to connect the bed to the cab, usually a rubber seal called >"accourdian boot" is used. It presses over the fresh cut metal edge on >both the bed and the cab and provides a nice seal. Only problem is the >stuff is like 10 -> 13 bucks a foot! OUCH! > >Clay > >84 Dodge Ram, scrapin pavement w/ 440 8bbl >96 Indy Ram, scrapin EVERYTHING w/ 360 Magnum!' -(www.indyram.org) >69 Road Runner 440 6bbl, project car > >http://expert.cc.purdue.edu/~cooke > >On Tue, 4 Apr 2000, Mike Schwall wrote: > > > Ahh you can get away with it if you bolt a steel ring around the edge of > > the hole in the sheetmetal to keep the sheetmetal from flexing. To join > > the cab and bed together you can use a flexible coupler like what is >used > > on pickup truck camper shells (tused between the shell window and truck > > slider window). Cutting a huge hole would weaken the structural >integrity > > of the cab, but sandwiching the sheetmetal around the edges of each hole > > between two 1/8" metal plates about a 1/2" wide would do the trick to > > retain the skin's structural strength. I'm pulling this out of my a$$, > > just so you know, but think about it, makes sense. Any civil engineers >on > > the list? If your making this hole pretty big, forget it, but if it's a > > foot in diameter or so, yeah it'll work without any abnormal metal > > flexing. Use lots of bolts, like every two to three inches or so around > > the ring. > > > > I dunno, it sure sounds good though :) Just keep in mind the front and > > rear window are part of the structural support of the truck > > body. Compromising the metal strength near the rear window could cause >a > > nice glass shower if in a wreck. > > > > Mike > > > > At 08:00 PM 4/4/2000 , you wrote: > > >Way bad idea. You're effecting the structual intgerity of the truck. > > > > > >>From: "Griffo" <griffo@cfl.rr.com> > > >>I am wanting to cut a hole through my standard cab below the window >and cut > > >>a hole in the bed below the top of the bed and somehow join the two >together > > >>and mount a box or something in back of the cab to extend the bottom >part of > > >>the cab. Anyone have any ideas, pictures, or info on doing this? > > >> > > >>Thanks > > >>Griffo > > >>griffo@cfl.rr.com > > >>Network/Field Engineer > > > > __________________________ > > mschwall@flash.net > > > > >
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