Man, that's a lot of questions! However, it's a good time to ask now,
instead of when you're up to your elbows in tranny fluid.
I just did the install about a month ago, so I'll try to remember what I
did. Should be very similar as I installed on a '98 Durango 5.9 4x4 with
the 46RE tranny. Here's some info to start:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/9668/dTransGo.html#dTransGoStart
...and here's some answers that I can remember:
>>In just about every step it involves cleaning. What product should I use
to
clean the valve body and components?
I used Valvoline synthetic carb cleaner.
>>On page 1 of the manual you have the option of using the zip tie to hold
the
ball and spring into a pocket, the video says this zip tie and particular
method of doing this can only be done on the small pocket. What I would
like to know is if on the Gen III Daks, is this a small or large pocket as
indicated in the video?
The 46RE is a small pocket, so you can use the zip tie.
>>On page 3 step 4 you have to grind the end of the TV valve. The only
thing
that I have to grind with is a Dremel, so I would like to know what bit I
should use?
I just used two files, coarse and fine. Didn't take very long.
>>Page 3 step 5 it says use yellow or pink spring. Which one will be used?
I'm pretty sure I used the pink spring, but I think this is the one that
says "just use the one closest in size to original", right? You'll know
when you get there.
>>At the very bottom of page 3 it says: If valve body has a restrictor in
this
passage, drill thru it in the direction of arrow with the .093 drill. Is
there a restriction here on the Gen III Dak valve body?
No restrictor here on 46RE.
>>Now on page 6 of the manual the video says DO NOT install check ball on
the
right side of the channel Casting while the manual says if the plate has two
holes in that location DO install the 1/4" check ball, if the plate has only
one hole at that location DO NOT install that check ball. What have you
folks done in this situation?
I left the check ball in as there were two holes, and the written
instructions are supposed to override the video.
>>Page 5 at the bottom where it refers to 1-2 firmness, it says for average
heavy duty uses don't enlarge this hole. For extremly heavy loads drill this
hole to .093. And for racing drill .093 to .101. What have you done here
and what would you reccomend?
In the upper right portion of this same page it says: For snow plow use and
off-road racing enlarge this hole with .093 drill. All other don't drill,
OK if already bigger, No hole hear ok. Is there a hole there? Is it already
bigger? Would or have you drilled it to .093?
On the upper left hand side of this same page it says: If the plate has a
hole here: drill .093 to .160. Is there a hole here? If so, what did or
would you drill it to?
This one is tough to remember. I think there was a hole, and I just left it
as is.
>>Page 7 Step 2 it says Diesel and all HD gas install white spring, High
performance: Install Blue spring. Which spring did you install?
Competition only: Turn PR adjust screw 6 turns counterclockwise. Did you do
this and what exactly do they mean by competition?
Install the Blue spring unless you're doing heavy towing. I backed off the
PR plate about 2 turns. 6 turns will give you the firmest 1-2 shift.
Believe me, the shift will be VERY firm at 2 turns. If you do mostly daily
driving, then don't back off at all unless you like whiplash!
>>Page 8 Step 2 Measure distance between the two pan holes marked "X". If
the
distance is about 14 1/2" install orifice cup plug furnished into hole shown
with flat nose punch. Is the distance about 14 1/2" thus making it
necessary to install this cup plug?
Yup. Installed the cup.
>>What is the procedure for the TV linkage adjustment?
Take the white clip off the TV cable at the throttle body. Adjust the cable
until it's tight and throttle movement pulls it instantly by centering the
TV cable end cap on the pin. When adjusted, put the white clip back on.
>>Any other thoughts, comments, tips, etc.?
1. Remember how the linkage cable brackets are attached at the tranny. I
put mine back on upside-down, and really messed up the TVC. I have pics on
my website.
2. I had an ECE check ball (3/16") that was NOT mentioned in the TransGo
video or manual. When I finished installing the valve body and refilling
the tranny, I found the ball. DOH! I had to drain and drop the valve body
again. Be VERY careful when taking the valve body apart!
3. Get long needle-nose pliers for the e-clip on the park linkage. Makes
the job much easier.
4. Before you put the tranny pan back on, make sure the gear shift linkage
is working properly by checking the contact points for Park and Neutral. If
the contact points are not lined up, you will not be able to start the truck
in Park.
5. Refilling took 9+ quarts of Redline C+ ATF. Make sure you have enough.
6. Getting to the front band adjust nut is really tough. Use a wobble
extension to get in there.
7. Give yourself at least 8 hours for the job.
>>Thank you all in advance for answering my questions, it is greatly
appreciated!
No problem. It's a lot of work, but you'll really like the results!
Bob C.
'98 Durango 5.9
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/9668/index.html#dHomeStart
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