In a message dated 05/08/2000 9:48:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Dester223@aol.com writes:
<< Here. I'll produce a subwoofer for you and I'll write (with a sharpie
permanent marker) that it can take 5,000,000,000 watts. it'll be 10" and
will fit into your thunderform. Now, the only bad thing is, you can only
give it 5,000,000,000 watts for a nano second before it blows.
Most "power rating" sheets are trash. To understand the car audio market
more, get this. a WATT isn't a WATT. different companies have different
ways
of determining what a watt is and what peak and RMS wattage are. Take a
Lanzar opti 50c for example. it is rated at 25x2 watts. it's a cheater amp
where the competition was baised on amp power classes ( now it is based on
cone area) sure it is RATED at 25x2 watts, but if you know how to use it
right, 800x2 isn't out of the question.. So next time you dog on someone
for
giving you some good advice, why don't you jus spend that time to thank them
for their suggestion(s)?
-Dester
>>
well said dester. there is nothing more confusing than trying to compare
stereo equipment via manufacturers cut sheets. one does not speak in the
same language as the other. saw a really nice amp the other day 1/4 watt at
4ohms. it was driving 4 twelves beautifully. i believe its 1 ohm rating was
1600 watts.
to whoever started this thread. go out and find a sub you like the sound of
and build/have built an enclosure for that sub. trying to do it starting
with a thunderform is not the right way to produce quality sound for you
ride. you may find one that will physically fit in the enclosure but chances
are it won't sound its best in that enclosure.
my $.02
derek
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