Just a thought: You can feed a sub all the power you want as long as it has
no distortion involved... If it has distortion, it will cause fluctuations
in how the cone moves and cause undue friction in the voice coil, friction =
heat, heat = bad news... By the way, Lanzar amps aren't EXACTLY what I'd
take with me to a competition. Watts, in and of themselves, aren't the end
all of audio. There's a cute little formula that explains this, something
along the lines of Power (watts) is equal to Current (AMPS!!!) times voltage
(Volts)... In the current state of audio affairs (And the current state of
physics...) the acutal amperage is going to do the real work in a system
(Volume: SPL, Db, Etc,.). That is to say, take an Xtant or PPI amp that's
rated at 250 watts mono into 4 ohms and an Lanzar, MTX, Pioneer, Kenwood,
etc, that's rated the same way... Due to discrepancies in how they rate the
AMPERAGE in those respective amplifiers (i.e., 250watts = 50amps X 5 volts
{Vs.} 250 watts = 10amps X 25 volts) the Xtant or PPI amp will be able to
hit and sustain higher SPL and Db ratings due to the fact that it simply has
the physical energy to keep that level of energy transfer up for an extended
period of time. Also, the fact that you CAN hit 800 "watts" with a Lanzar
amp is testimonial to it's somewhat poor build... With a good, regulated,
power supply, you will be able to keep up the power curve (i.e., Ohms down,
Watts Up) only through 2 or MAYBE 1 ohm... (The one exception to the "rule"
is the Orion HCCA amplifiers that are stable down to 1/4 ohm and have a HUGE
torroidal transformer (think; Dakota's ALTERNATOR!) as a power supply.
These amps just beat the hell out of your vehicles alternator instead.) The
reason for this is simple: The amplifiers' manufacturers do not want you to
go out there and hook their littlest amplifier up to a wall of 12's and drop
the load to some outrageously small impedance and melt the circuit boards
inside or even to exceed 80 degrees centigrade as the internal transistors'
life spans will be halved EACH TIME you do this... You sacrifice brute
force for an amp that will last you longer and sound better...
I hope this clears up any confusion on the subject of Subs, Amps,
enclosures, etc,...
Brandon
>From: Dester223@aol.com
>Reply-To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
>To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
>Subject: Re: DML: RE: Subwoofers
>Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 00:47:03 EDT
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>Here. I'll produce a subwoofer for you and I'll write (with a sharpie
>permanent marker) that it can take 5,000,000,000 watts. it'll be 10" and
>will fit into your thunderform. Now, the only bad thing is, you can only
>give it 5,000,000,000 watts for a nano second before it blows.
>
>Most "power rating" sheets are trash. To understand the car audio market
>more, get this. a WATT isn't a WATT. different companies have different
>ways
>of determining what a watt is and what peak and RMS wattage are. Take a
>Lanzar opti 50c for example. it is rated at 25x2 watts. it's a cheater amp
>where the competition was baised on amp power classes ( now it is based on
>cone area) sure it is RATED at 25x2 watts, but if you know how to use it
>right, 800x2 isn't out of the question.. So next time you dog on someone
>for
>giving you some good advice, why don't you jus spend that time to thank
>them
>for their suggestion(s)?
>-Dester
>
><< Sorry jack, but according to the IDQ webpage the 10's are only rated up
>to
> 250 watts.
>
> Chris
> >>
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