I would definitely invest in a seal driver. If you can't find one cheap,
shoot me an email off-list and I'll get ya one from work at my cost. You
may also want to try "The Right Stuff" RTV, it's a bit expensive but it is
VERY easy to dispense, and sets up quicker than regular RTV. When I
installed the gaskets last time I put "T.R.S." from corner to corner top and
bottom of the rear gasket, still leaking a little bit. I plan on removing
the oil sender unit and distributor and use the pressurized can to sorta
inject RTV between the block and intake.
I have also noted when comparing intakes that the stock one has a cross
hatched sealing surface on the front and rear whereas the MPI was smooth as
glass....
> Hi Jon,
> It's the MPI (M1) intake. I used the new improved gasket set and only
> applied RTV on the Guide pins and corners where the heads meet the block.
I
> should have know better. I was hoping to just slide a pair of 2x2's or
> something similar between the intake and valve covers to do the change.
(If
> I can wiggle the intake out from under the accessory bracket that is.)
The
> gaskets on now are only around 2-3 months old, and might have 10hrs
run-time
> on them. $30 for another new set of bolts & gaskets; oh-boy! The Dak has
> been sitting in the garage getting paint touch-ups.
>
> I also need to replace the front main oil seal again. I can never seem to
> put these things on right. Just replaced it when I did the intake and it
> has an ever-so-small dribble. Guess I need to buy some type of tool to
> install the seal straight in line with the crank instead of just tapping
> them in with a board. My harmonic balancer is not very smooth where it
> contacts the seal either. Maybe that is my problem, any ideas?
> Rich
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jun 20 2003 - 11:51:40 EDT