> well then the guy at my auto part store is stupid.
> he said that it wouldnt work cuz the hub wasnt supported.
> i thought he might be full of it, but i just wanted to make
> sure. great, now i dont need to rent a car! the cv boots
> are cracking and it seems easier to replace the entire assembly
> than to replace 4 boots, plus i have a 12 year old truck
> and the joints are probably worn quite a bit.
The hub isnt supported? HUH!? The CV joint assembly is bolted onto the
differential flange/housing with like 5 or 6 bolts. Both passenger and
driver's side cv joint are the same way, both are bolted. Then, on the other
end of the cv joint is a threaded rod which passes through the spindle. All
you need to do here is the remove the cotter pin, loosen the hub nut, and
out will come the entire cv joint assembly. Loosening the hub nut was a
hassle on mine, as it was probably impacted on very very well. I broke
several 1/2" extension bars in this removal process. I was afraid to use a
ratchet, cause I thought the internal gears would snap, even though the
tools were Craftsman. I think the socket I finally used was something like 1
1/4" or so, it is a big one. I hooked this large socket onto a LARGE and
LONG 3/4" drive 'Flex T Handle' bar, which was only about 20 inches long, so
I also slid a 3ft piece of pipe over this bar and actuually stood and
bounced on it to finally break it loose, where I took it off from there with
a ratchet. Leverage is the key here! Most definately you can drive around
without the cv joint assembly. Good Luck!
Kyle
93 Dakota 4x4 V6
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