RE: RE: Traction Bars(Attn: Matt)

From: Barret, Matt (MATT_BARRET@earthtech.com)
Date: Fri Jul 07 2000 - 10:42:35 EDT


yep, they will be the best 30 bucks spent for your truck! I didn't use the
spacer like Steven, so I have a larger gap between the snubber and the
spring. I pushed my bars as far forward as possible to get as close to the
spring eye as possible.
The only reason I didn't use a spacer like Steven is because they worked
perfect for me with out them so I never messed with them. I added a few
washers under the snubber to lift it closer to the spring. I agree with
Steven, the snubber should be pretty close to the contact point. You should
probably go with the spacer! I added Duetch tech shocks to the truck also,
this made a world of a difference!
I was thinking about making my own traction bars, except make them long
enough to position the snubber directly under the Spring eye! Should be very
easy to make. I have a welder and the tools, just need to locate the steel.
Another option is make my own "Caltrac" bars???

Matt
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-----Original Message-----

From: Stlaurent Mr Steven [mailto:STLAURENTS@mctssa.usmc.mil]
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 10:06 AM
To: 'dakota-truck@buffnet.net'
Subject: DML: RE: Traction Bars(Attn: Matt)

WAY-TO-GO Chris!

Yes, the Lakewood were not primarily designed for the Dakota. You have to
fabricate a piece a material for the space between the Traction Bars and the
Axle. I used a hardened piece of Oak wood. The reasoning behind this is to
absorbed the launching of the Dakota. I will be replacing this unit soon as
I move into the wheels and suspension in the fall. I will have someone make
Utherathane Rubber material that will be a square shape. Anyway, a 1.25"
wide and 2.5 inches long. But with me, I left a 1/4 inch gap between the
snubber and the leaf springs. I want the shocks and leafs do it stuff
before the traction bars hit. Pushes the weight transfer rearward and then
launch. I hope this will answer your question. Remember, after installing,
you will need do a at least a couple more tightening on the rear portion of
the bars for any movement.

You will need a deep well socket to install the inside nuts next to the
wheels.

-------------------------------------------
Steven St.Laurent
Test Engineer
Test Branch, GSD, MCTSSA
MARCORSYSCOM, USMC
760-725-2506 (DSN 365-2506)
Work:mailto:stlaurents@mctssa.usmc.mil
Home:mailto:saint1958@home.com

 -----Original Message-----

From: Y2KDakuda@aol.com [mailto:Y2KDakuda@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 2:40 AM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: DML: Traction Bars(Attn: Matt)

I just picked up a pair of Lakewood Traction bars last night and need a
little help on what I need to do to make them work on the dak. I know that
someone said you had to put a spacer or something in the back. please help
need traction!!!!!

Chris Lambert
00 CC Sport + 4.7 V-8 5 speed 3.55 LSD 325/50/15 BFG COMP/TA Drag Radials
Flowmaster catback duel tips K&N drop in Filter Autolite plugs (3923's)
Clear Front Lenses Lackwood Traction bars (In Box)
1/4 mile 15.11@88.46



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