In general lift kits only deal with suspension (with the exeption of body
lifts), so anything that hooks to the frame and the suspension you should be
concerned about. Brake lines, driveshafts, e-brake cables, and possible ABS
wiring are pretty much all you have to worry about. For a 2" lift, you
shouldnt have to change anything. You should recheck the rear pinion angle
and adjust accordingly. Thats the angle of the pinion gear in the rear end
in relation to the driveshaft angle. If you are gonna do a body lift, you
have to worry about steering column length, any wiring that goes to the frame
(all engine wiring, fuel pump, sending unit, anything that stays attached to
the frame and has an electrical connection), and possibly radiator hoses if
the radiator is mounted to the body, trans cooler lines, etc. etc. Remember,
the engine and trans stay on the frame. The fuel lines stay on the frame, so
you dont have to deal with those, unless they have clips that hold them to
the body somewhere. If you have a manual trans your shifter will be further
down in the floor. An auto trans will need the linkage adjustment rechecked.
As you can see, theres a lot more involved with a "simple" body lift, as
opposed to a "real" suspension lift. Hope this helps.
Brad
P.S. Body lifts are basically only good to get a little extra tire clearance
and a little extra ground clearance from using the taller tires. A
suspension lift will do all, plus give more suspension travel, allowing more
rugged off road capabilities.
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