On a '97, the tensioner bolt is a 15 mm. I use a closed ended wrench
that's extra long for leverage. I also find it easier on the left
hand to wear a thick padded glove to push and hold the tensioner
to the passenger side in order to slacken in the belt for removal
and installation ... a second party does make it easier.
I remove the belt from the idler pulley (the one without the grooves)
first and install it on the idler pulley last. You'll find it difficult
when putting on a new belt but it becomes easier over time as it stretches
(I short belt at the track so I've put it on and taken it off many
times.)
BTW, small cracks that run across the belt's rib(s) are considered
normal. Cracks that run along the rib and glazing of the belt
indicate that it should be replaced. Hope this and posts
from Chuck and Bernd help.
Bob
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> The key is the belt tensioner (the small pulley under and to the left
> of the alt.) Place a (I think) 13 mm wrench on it and turn clockwise to
> loosen the tension. Once the tension is off the belt you can remove it.
> When it's time to replace the belt, follow the diagram on the radiator
> support and save the belt tensioner pulley for last. Put the wrench back
> on the belt tensioner, turn counter-clockwise and slip the belt on.
> I can scan the directions, but that's about all there is to replacing
> the belt. Chuck Robbins
>-----Original Message----------------------------------------------
>> Can anyone who has a 97+FSM for a 5.2-318 scan in how replace the
>> serpintine belt? -Mike Brown 97-Dakota
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