This type of feedback is very helpful for all us and we appreciate the tie
you have taken to write this.
-------------------------------------------
Steven St.Laurent
Test Engineer
Test Branch, GSD, MCTSSA
MARCORSYSCOM, USMC
760-725-2506 (DSN 365-2506)
Work:mailto:stlaurents@mctssa.usmc.mil
Home:mailto:saint1958@home.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Ronald Wong [mailto:ron-wong@home.com]
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2000 1:32 PM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Cc: brian@4apc.net
Subject: DML: Clear Corners for 2000 Dodge Dakotas-Installation
(LONG)
I have just finished installing the clear corners for my Dakota. It was an
experience, to say the least, as it is with most aftermarket parts. My
hat's off to Dremel whose product has become near and dear to my heart.
This project would have taken a lot longer without it. Open up your hood.
It'll make it easier in the succeeding steps.
1) Take out the stock corners by taking out the screw between the corners
and your headlamp. The stock screw is a T10 torx head screw. I would reuse
this to mount the clear corners. It looks like a much stronger screw than
what is supplied. Besides, you already have the torx driver out. Why do
you want to go search for a Phillips?
2) You want to crawl under the truck and loosen the lights out of the
sockets by rotating counter-clockwise. The little parking lamp may have to
wait until you can pull the assembly away from the frame. The reason for
doing all this (at least on my truck) is because DC has the wiring pulled
taut and it's really hard to pull the corners away from the frame to reach
behind them to disconnect the lights. Once you remove the corners you can
jiggle the wiring and discover there's an extra six inches stuck behind the
cowling. (It's always nice to have an extra six inches ;-))
3) There is some rubber weather-stripping that connects to the inside of
each corner via two pins on the corners themselves. This is the reason the
hood needs to be up.
4) Once all that's done the unit should slide right out. Take a close look
at the lamps. You have two lamps (3157's). Those are the parking/turn
signal lamps. Those are pretty simple to remove and replace.
5) Toward the outside of each corner are what they call marker lamps. Each
corner has one. It uses a 194 bulb. As usual, when replacing bulbs, DON'T
touch the bulb with your bare hands. You'll shorten its life with your
finger oils. Use a towel.
6) We're going to concentrate on the marker lamps because the APC ones are a
pain in the rear. If you look at the stock corners you'll notice the tabs
are flush with the housing. If you look at the APC ones, you'll notice
there is about a 3/16" lip around the hole with the tabs recessed in the
hole. I guarantee you will not get your lamp in that hole the way it's set
up. Why did APC do that. No idea! Maybe they're in cahoots with Dremel.
Maybe an earlier Dak requires that, however, the label on their box
indicates these corners are for 97-00 Daks. Maybe they (APC) will explain.
They're getting a copy of this installation note. Ok, APC, if you're
reading this, so are 900 other customers or potential customers.
7) SUGGESTION: Wear goggles and a face mask to do the next two steps. There
will be fine plastic dust and smoke all over you.
8) If you have a Dremel rotary tool, now's the time to set it up. If you
don't get a hacksaw or something to cut. On your Dremel set up a cutting
disc. Those are the discs that can cut through steel at 30,000 rpm but if
you flick it with the motor off, it'll go ka-ching and break into little
pieces. Cut down that 3/16" rim down to as close to the housing as you can
get. At 30,000 rpm it's going to half-cut and half-melt the plastic so be
careful. At less than 30,000 rpm it won't cut or melt very well.
9) Now change to your high-speed cutter bit and take the plastic down to
the tabs, NOT THROUGH THE TABS, just to the tabs. You cannot just be flush
with the housing. You must be flush with the tabs in order for the marker
lamp to fit. You can take a sanding disc and smooth everything up when
you're done, though no one will really see the inside of your corners.
10) Put your new bulbs in. Some dealers will supply bulbs with your
corners, others won't. If you need to go out and buy them, don't go to a
specialty store. They are cost prohibitive. Target, K-Mart or Wal-Mart
sells them for around $4.50 for two bulbs. You'll need four 3157NA's and
two 194NA's. These are amber bulbs. Most states require amber. If you
want to push it and see what happens, you can put your old bulbs in. Put
the bulbs in the sockets and check them out BEFORE you put everything back
together. Turn on your parking lights and test each turn signal.
11) Once you're satisfied that everything's working correctly, it's time to
put the lamps back into the corners and re-install. The marker lamps should
go in and twist clockwise to lock. The turn signal lamps have three notches
and matching slots. One is bigger than the other two. That means it'll
only fit one way. Don't try to muscle it! Once it's in, a clockwise twist
will lock it in place.
12) To put the corners back on, there are three brackets and holders that
each corner must slide into. Make sure all brackets slide into their
respective holders. Install the torx screw and tighten. Make sure you put
the rubber weather-stripping back on to the pins for each corner.
13) Close your hood. Stand back and look at the fine job you just did!
Looks good, huh?
End of installation.
Ron
00 SLT QC 4X2 5.9 46RE 3.55 LSD
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