Marty, I'm using 3 rubber 90 degree elbows that are connected with 4" pieces
of PVC pipe. So on my setup there is very little PVC. I agree with your
point about the shattering of the plastic, but if my truck is hit hard
enough to break the PVC, More than likely it will be totaled. My system also
is not bolted firm in place, it can move , so if it does get hit there is
some movement in the system, as well as movement in the rubber elbows.
Your post about the air hat is interesting, I am still trying to digest it
fully. Give it a try and see what happens, I know after I removed the air
hat and air box totally, the performance increase was significant.
__________________________________
Matt--VA--Y2K-HEMI `00 Sport Plus RC
4.7L 5spd. 9 1/4 3.92 LSD, Homemade air intake,
T-Bars, Spring clamps, Mobil 1,Hoosiers
3" Flowmaster cat-back,14.48 @ 92.40 MPH
209.9 RWHP/285 RWTQ
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
-----Original Message-----
From: Marty Galyean [mailto:mgalyean@acm.org]
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 10:29 AM
To: DML
Subject: DML: Why I don't like PVC tubes on my intake
This a repost that I buried in another thread and saw no
response. I think it might be interesting to some of you so I
gave it its own subject.
There is one serious thing to consider when using PVC fittings
and pipe on the intake. If it shatters in an accident pieces can
easily get sucked into the intake and melt in your heads and on
your cylinder walls and rings causing instant friction.
Something to think about as this would likely require a rebuild.
An ABS plastic would be much better (like stock air box etc)
doesn't shatter nearly as easily (abs = antiballistic something;
i.e. shock resistant). No idea where you'd get it in the shape
you want though. I think I will go with the metal then insulate
it.
Marty
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