Thanks Bernd,
The sparkplug wire was good but because I chopped about an inch off it, I
didn't have the damn connector seated on the plug. Messed with it for a few
to figure out the problem and that was it. Reset the MIL just as you said.
It is nice to have a professional to talk to...but even Ron Wong could'a
advised me. I'm strictly a weekend mechanic.
Hugh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bernd D. Ratsch" <bernd@texas.net>
To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2000 3:33 PM
Subject: DML: RE: Some performance questions
> Grab a replacement wire (just one that will fit) and install it in the
> location of the damaged one. If it runs better, that's the problem.
>
> When you repaired the wire, did you fold the actual conductive material
> (black wire on the inside) over and touching the clamp of the plug
> connector?
>
> Removing the MIL is easy...just reset the computer again. (Unless you
have
> a scan-tool, then you just select "Clear Codes".
>
> - Bernd
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dakota-truck@buffnet.net
> [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@buffnet.net]On Behalf Of Hugh Catlett
> Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2000 2:11 PM
> To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
> Subject: DML: Some performance questions
>
>
> I need some professional advice please.
>
> I just replaced my thermostat with 180 degree model and the OE plugs with
> Autolite 3923's. I also reset the ECU. I also pulled one of the
plugwires
> out of its plug connector.
>
> I think that the plugwire I screwed wasn't satisfied with my repair
attempt.
> Because now after about 15 miles I have a noticable shake in the engine at
> idle and the "Check Engine" light has come on. Is there anyway to tell
if
> that plugwire is the problem? This is a 98 5.2L Auto 2WD DAK.
>
> I'll try to re-repair the plugwire and then how do I kill the check engine
> light?
>
> As an aside - what is the recommended gasoline to use, brand and octane
> rating?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
>
>
>
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