Another real good tip is to grind the heads off of the old manifold
bolts (can't re-use them anyway) and screw them into the block and use
them as "guides" as you lower the manifold down into position. This
way it goes right down exactly where it should be. --Mike
www.mikesdakota.com
> And to make sure that they don't slip on install, dimple the mating surfaces
> with a small punch (or a nail). The old BB Chevys had the same problem as
> with the M1's. Gaskets slip, leak, require excessive amounts of silicone
> (which can break off and fall into the lifter valley) and are a pain in the
> a$$ when you just spent a weekend putting on a nice manifold just to tear it
> off again and reseal the ends.
> Dimple the mating surfaces and use a good sealer (i've used Ultra Copper for
> 12 years without any leakage problems). Lay a light bead down on the block
> and put the rubber seal on there. Press down lightly and let it tack up a
> bit (about 5 minutes). Then, install the manifold with a light bead of
> silicone on the ends as well.
> - Bernd
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dakota-truck@buffnet.net
> Subject: DML: RE: M1 gasket install tips?
> Tom,
> Get an upgraded set from the dealer with the rubber front and back seals.
> They seal better than the cork sets. Don't be afraid to use enough RTV when
> installing them. Run a generous bead above and below the rubber seals, and
> dont forget the alignment pin holes. Run a healthy double bead where the
> heads meet the block.
> Some people are using a sealant called "The Right Stuff". I understand it
> is a remarkable sealant. You do have to move quickly though when using it.
> It sets up in like five minutes.
> Good-luck,
> Rich
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jun 20 2003 - 11:59:17 EDT