Curt
I would practice on the 65mm TB first. You can run with the 68mm in stock
form while you work on the 65 mm. When you get done, test it and if it
works, you know what to do for the 68mm.
This is how I did mine.
After removing the throttle position sensor I removed the ring clip with
snap ring pliers with home made tangs. The one I could find in the stores
were too short to reach down into the barrel. It took three tries to find a
suitable material to make the tangs from. Modified nails were too soft and
bent. Tungsten was too brittle and snapped, 304 Stainless steel worked
great. (the snap ring is 10mm, I would replace it with a new one. Cost about
25 cents.)
Then remove the screws from the shaft in the TB.
Remove the blade.
Unhook the spring
Before removing the shaft I marked the shaft so I could later determine
where to stop removing material so I would not mess up the surface that
makes contact with the bearing surface in the TB.
I put lots of good quality electrical tape on the shaft to protect the areas
I was not going to be removing any material from.
I had packed the bearing holes, and other channels with cotton batting to
keep the destruction debris out of those places.
I used a Dremmel tool to remove the material in the bore being careful not
to touch the area where the blade seats.
Then I used a rouge polishing compound made for polishing aluminum
that I purchased at Sears. When it was done it looked like chrome.
The shaft was first notched aprox two mm on each point I marked before
removing it from the TB on the side without the threads in the holes. Then I
used a grinder and hand held file to bring that part of the shaft down to
1.5 to 1.7 mm thick. The other side of the shaft got the same treatment but
I took it down to 2.5mm thick. I'm thinking of removing 1/2 of the shaft
altogether and having the screw contact the plate. If you do this MAKE SURE
you cutoff the half with OUT threads in the holes.
I purchased Stainless screws with a lower head profile and counter sunk the
holes in the 1.5mm side to match.
I had packed the bearing holes, and other channels with cotton batting to
keep the destruction debris out of those places. I removed the packing and
cleaned the TB. Reassembled the TB and installed it.
Works great. Hope this helps.
Call me if you have any questions. 503-730-9891. Please state you are a
DLMer if you do call.
Patrick O'Day
2000 Dakota 4x4, 4.7L, CC
Ztube w/9 inch big mouth filter
68 MM TB Ported and Polished
3" catback and Flowmaster 50
Rancho 9000 Shocks
Robert Shaw 755 180F Thermostat
Mobil 1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Curt Coulter" <curt@cjnetworking.com>
To: "DML List" <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 1:43 PM
Subject: DML: 68mm TB
> Ok, so I have one of the new 68mm TBs sitting here from 'Jim "Binky"
> Bengston' at Eldorado Motors (*terrific* service from him btw!, and great
> deal too, thanks to whoever set it up). My dremel tool is quivering. Any
> tips on polishing etc. that anyone can give would be appreciated. I'm
> tempted to smooth out the area in the front of the TB, lots of extra metal
> there. I'd have no way of ensuring that it stayed perfectly round, is
that
> important? (i'm not talking about anywhere near wear the butterfly seats,
> it looks like it is machined from the back, leaving a noticable lip and
> extra material where the boring stops).
>
> /Curt
> Chelsea, MI
> y2k QC 4.7 5spd 3.92
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jun 20 2003 - 11:59:22 EDT