Thanks for all the help Ron. Just a few more questions if you will.
The Bosch plugs? Are they a direct cross according to Bosch? Have they
just not updated their page?
I read that some 4.7l engines didn't have a pinging problem with 87 octane,
unfortunatley they got the timing retarded with a generic flash that covers
all Dakota vehicles. So if I can restore the timing curve I can get my
mileage back? If it starts to ping I put in colder plugs and t-stat?
As for the exhaust, I alread have a K&N filter so I've covered that already,
although there is prolly something better out there.
Incidentally, I just got off a chat with a guy selling one of these magnet
things. Was trying to get an EPA report out of him. What a joke.
Thanks again for all your help.
Rich
""Ronald Wong"" <ron-wong@home.com> wrote in message
news:NDBBIHDGKKJOIJDEOCBMKEGBEBAA.ron-wong@home.com...
>
> 1. New plugs. I believe it was to a colder plug. What does that do for
> carbonization of the back sides of the valves? Checked www.boschusa.com
and
> they don't list a plug for the 2000 4.7l, maybe that's the reason people
are
> telling you not to put them in? On the other hand, NGK makes a direct
cross
> in a platinum. Maybe that's the way to go?
>
> Answer: The Bosch plugs for your vehicle are 4418 for platinum+4's and
4230
> for platinum's. A lot of DML'ers choose one step colder plug which would
> make them 4417 and 4229 respectively. This, again, is for pinging.
Cooler
> plugs dissipate more heat from the cylinder area thereby lessening
possible
> detonation problems.
>
> 2. Timing. What I've gathered from this and other forums is that the
4.7l
> can take more advance than the other models but the timing gets retarded
> because of a generic flash update that is common to all 2000 (01?)
Dakotas.
> The other motors are having more troubles with this than the 4.7l? So if
I
> can find a chip that advances the timing I'll get better economy but lose
a
> little bottom end grunt?
>
> Answer: I think it's the other way around. If you advance the timing
you'll
> need higher octane fuel. The higher the octane the harder it is to
ignite.
> You need this to prevent detonation. When you advance timing your spark
> gets there sooner. I can see you're trying to get the best of both worlds
> here which is really going to be difficult because of the type of vehicle
> you have chosen to purchase.
>
> 3. Cat back exhaust. So far the only product to make a specific claim of
> better mileage in thier ads. My concern is it also says 'more power'. In
> general you need X gallons of fuel to make X Hp. So if you make more
power
> one would think you'd burn more gas. In most computer controlled motors
> they adjust the air/fuel mixture so if you alter one side of the equastion
> by adding more air, won't the computer just compinsate by adding more
fuel?
> The only other explanation is that the exhaust improves on the efficiency
> (sp?) of the motor. Are these systems louder/noisier than stock?
>
> Answer: Efficiencies of the engine could give you mileage gains but if you
> think this one mod will make that big of difference think again. If you
> free up flow at one end, you need to free up flow at the other. There's
no
> point exhaling when you haven't inhaled. Most of these systems are quite
a
> bit louder than stock.
>
> 4. Synthetic fluids. I've seen a number of posts regarding this and I
> think that going to Mobil 1 is gonna be a given. Ran it in my old vehicle
> and loved it. I've seen posts saying not to run synthetic transmission
> fluid for one reason or another, something about the different types of
> synthetic. You gotta make sure you get the right one or you can cause
more
> damage then save. How about differential fluid? It seems to me that the
> diff fluid in my truck has the consistency of roofing tar. Sometimes I
can
> drive 5 or 6 miles before it locks up and the RPMs drop to normal,
> especially true in cold weather.
>
> I can't speak enough of synthetic fluids. They are a lot more slippery
than
> dino oil. No varnish build up. You can run the engine oil for 10K-20K
> miles with no change provided you change the filter at the normal
intervals
> (3K-5K miles) and you use a good filter (NO Fram!). Automatic
transmissions
> must have ATF+3 Type 7176 fluid. Synthetics that have these
specifications
> are Amsoil and Redline. Differential fluids are 75W90. I believe a lot
of
> DML'ers use Amsoil. Most people use Mobil 1 for the engine. It seems to
be
> the easiest to find. I use Castrol Syntec which I buy from Costco at a
> fairly good price. I haven't had any problems with it, though I believe
> there was some controversy way back when there was some dispute between
> Mobil and Castrol.
>
> 5. Thermostat. A number of people have suggested this. I'm really not
> sure what this will do for me. I guess it's feasable that a cooler
running
> motor means cooler cylinders and less likelyhood of ping. But I'm not
> having that problem. If I manage to get the timing advanced maybe I will?
> Comments are welcome on this one.
>
> Answer: This is another "running the engine cooler" mod. You'll not
realize
> any power gains. Will it help economy? Maybe a tad bit. Theory is your
> engine runs best at 183º coolant temperature. Therefore a change to a
180º
> t-stat is the best. For those that ping this is a definite change for the
> better. For your 4.7 engine changing it is a pain. I have a 5.9 and my
> timing's advanced. I run 92+ octane fuel but my t-stat is still a 195.
>
> 6. Snake oil. Read a few posts about fuel line magnets and fuel
catalysts
> but I really wonder what the deal is. I found a report on the EPA page
> about some of the products that were tested and proven to improve mileage
> but haven't been able to read the results from the individual test to see
> which one made the biggest change.
>
> Answer: You said it right! "Snake oil". Fuel catalysts? You mean stuff
> that can increase the octane? Some of those will but it's going to be
> expensive adding that every time you gas up.
>
> HTH,
> Ron
>
>
>
>
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