Ya, if he had a shaker hood, and the filter sitting right out there in the
air, but with the stock air box, and any hood a dropin wouldn't help much,
since it pulls its air from the inside of the fender. I have experienced the
dropin K&N in other vehicles, and it made a noticable difference in sound
and performance, but with the 4.7, it did nothing for it at all...
Josh
""Ronald Wong"" <ron-wong@home.com> wrote in message
news:NDBBIHDGKKJOIJDEOCBMCEGIEBAA.ron-wong@home.com...
> Yes, a drop in would work much better with a hood that is set up for cold
> air intake.
>
> Ron
> 00 PB SLT QC 4X2 5.9 46RE 3.92 LSD
> For modifications see my DML Profile (URL follows)
> http://www.twistedbits.net/WWWProfile/dakota/Kw9pV1EkFeOYY
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dakota-truck@BUFFNET.NET
> [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@BUFFNET.NET]On Behalf Of Josh Stolarz
> Sent: Friday, March 16, 2001 11:44 AM
> To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
> Subject: DML: Re: Ronald: Help With Fuel Economy on 4.7L
>
>
> I had a K&N dropin in my 4.7 and it did nothing for me. YOur eally need to
> go with a cold air tube type intake, that would get rid of the air box
> completly. The 4.7 really like to suck air....
>
> Josh
>
> ""ZeRTified Cat"" <zrt800@iname.com> wrote in message
> news:98tnuf$cft$1@bent.twistedbits.net...
> > Thanks for all the help Ron. Just a few more questions if you will.
> >
> > The Bosch plugs? Are they a direct cross according to Bosch? Have they
> > just not updated their page?
> >
> > I read that some 4.7l engines didn't have a pinging problem with 87
> octane,
> > unfortunatley they got the timing retarded with a generic flash that
> covers
> > all Dakota vehicles. So if I can restore the timing curve I can get my
> > mileage back? If it starts to ping I put in colder plugs and t-stat?
> >
> > As for the exhaust, I alread have a K&N filter so I've covered that
> already,
> > although there is prolly something better out there.
> >
> > Incidentally, I just got off a chat with a guy selling one of these
magnet
> > things. Was trying to get an EPA report out of him. What a joke.
> >
> > Thanks again for all your help.
> >
> > Rich
> >
> >
> >
> > ""Ronald Wong"" <ron-wong@home.com> wrote in message
> > news:NDBBIHDGKKJOIJDEOCBMKEGBEBAA.ron-wong@home.com...
> > >
> > > 1. New plugs. I believe it was to a colder plug. What does that do
> for
> > > carbonization of the back sides of the valves? Checked
www.boschusa.com
> > and
> > > they don't list a plug for the 2000 4.7l, maybe that's the reason
people
> > are
> > > telling you not to put them in? On the other hand, NGK makes a direct
> > cross
> > > in a platinum. Maybe that's the way to go?
> > >
> > > Answer: The Bosch plugs for your vehicle are 4418 for platinum+4's and
> > 4230
> > > for platinum's. A lot of DML'ers choose one step colder plug which
> would
> > > make them 4417 and 4229 respectively. This, again, is for pinging.
> > Cooler
> > > plugs dissipate more heat from the cylinder area thereby lessening
> > possible
> > > detonation problems.
> > >
> > > 2. Timing. What I've gathered from this and other forums is that the
> > 4.7l
> > > can take more advance than the other models but the timing gets
retarded
> > > because of a generic flash update that is common to all 2000 (01?)
> > Dakotas.
> > > The other motors are having more troubles with this than the 4.7l? So
> if
> > I
> > > can find a chip that advances the timing I'll get better economy but
> lose
> > a
> > > little bottom end grunt?
> > >
> > > Answer: I think it's the other way around. If you advance the timing
> > you'll
> > > need higher octane fuel. The higher the octane the harder it is to
> > ignite.
> > > You need this to prevent detonation. When you advance timing your
spark
> > > gets there sooner. I can see you're trying to get the best of both
> worlds
> > > here which is really going to be difficult because of the type of
> vehicle
> > > you have chosen to purchase.
> > >
> > > 3. Cat back exhaust. So far the only product to make a specific
claim
> of
> > > better mileage in thier ads. My concern is it also says 'more power'.
> In
> > > general you need X gallons of fuel to make X Hp. So if you make more
> > power
> > > one would think you'd burn more gas. In most computer controlled
motors
> > > they adjust the air/fuel mixture so if you alter one side of the
> equastion
> > > by adding more air, won't the computer just compinsate by adding more
> > fuel?
> > > The only other explanation is that the exhaust improves on the
> efficiency
> > > (sp?) of the motor. Are these systems louder/noisier than stock?
> > >
> > > Answer: Efficiencies of the engine could give you mileage gains but if
> you
> > > think this one mod will make that big of difference think again. If
you
> > > free up flow at one end, you need to free up flow at the other.
There's
> > no
> > > point exhaling when you haven't inhaled. Most of these systems are
> quite
> > a
> > > bit louder than stock.
> > >
> > > 4. Synthetic fluids. I've seen a number of posts regarding this and
I
> > > think that going to Mobil 1 is gonna be a given. Ran it in my old
> vehicle
> > > and loved it. I've seen posts saying not to run synthetic
transmission
> > > fluid for one reason or another, something about the different types
of
> > > synthetic. You gotta make sure you get the right one or you can cause
> > more
> > > damage then save. How about differential fluid? It seems to me that
> the
> > > diff fluid in my truck has the consistency of roofing tar. Sometimes
I
> > can
> > > drive 5 or 6 miles before it locks up and the RPMs drop to normal,
> > > especially true in cold weather.
> > >
> > > I can't speak enough of synthetic fluids. They are a lot more
slippery
> > than
> > > dino oil. No varnish build up. You can run the engine oil for
10K-20K
> > > miles with no change provided you change the filter at the normal
> > intervals
> > > (3K-5K miles) and you use a good filter (NO Fram!). Automatic
> > transmissions
> > > must have ATF+3 Type 7176 fluid. Synthetics that have these
> > specifications
> > > are Amsoil and Redline. Differential fluids are 75W90. I believe a
lot
> > of
> > > DML'ers use Amsoil. Most people use Mobil 1 for the engine. It seems
> to
> > be
> > > the easiest to find. I use Castrol Syntec which I buy from Costco at
a
> > > fairly good price. I haven't had any problems with it, though I
believe
> > > there was some controversy way back when there was some dispute
between
> > > Mobil and Castrol.
> > >
> > > 5. Thermostat. A number of people have suggested this. I'm really
not
> > > sure what this will do for me. I guess it's feasable that a cooler
> > running
> > > motor means cooler cylinders and less likelyhood of ping. But I'm not
> > > having that problem. If I manage to get the timing advanced maybe I
> will?
> > > Comments are welcome on this one.
> > >
> > > Answer: This is another "running the engine cooler" mod. You'll not
> > realize
> > > any power gains. Will it help economy? Maybe a tad bit. Theory is
> your
> > > engine runs best at 183º coolant temperature. Therefore a change to a
> > 180º
> > > t-stat is the best. For those that ping this is a definite change for
> the
> > > better. For your 4.7 engine changing it is a pain. I have a 5.9 and
my
> > > timing's advanced. I run 92+ octane fuel but my t-stat is still a
195.
> > >
> > > 6. Snake oil. Read a few posts about fuel line magnets and fuel
> > catalysts
> > > but I really wonder what the deal is. I found a report on the EPA
page
> > > about some of the products that were tested and proven to improve
> mileage
> > > but haven't been able to read the results from the individual test to
> see
> > > which one made the biggest change.
> > >
> > > Answer: You said it right! "Snake oil". Fuel catalysts? You mean
> stuff
> > > that can increase the octane? Some of those will but it's going to be
> > > expensive adding that every time you gas up.
> > >
> > > HTH,
> > > Ron
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
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