Yes, a drop in would work much better with a hood that is set up for cold
air intake.
Ron
00 PB SLT QC 4X2 5.9 46RE 3.92 LSD
For modifications see my DML Profile (URL follows)
http://www.twistedbits.net/WWWProfile/dakota/Kw9pV1EkFeOYY
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@BUFFNET.NET
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@BUFFNET.NET]On Behalf Of Josh Stolarz
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2001 11:44 AM
To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
Subject: DML: Re: Ronald: Help With Fuel Economy on 4.7L
I had a K&N dropin in my 4.7 and it did nothing for me. YOur eally need to
go with a cold air tube type intake, that would get rid of the air box
completly. The 4.7 really like to suck air....
Josh
""ZeRTified Cat"" <zrt800@iname.com> wrote in message
news:98tnuf$cft$1@bent.twistedbits.net...
> Thanks for all the help Ron. Just a few more questions if you will.
>
> The Bosch plugs? Are they a direct cross according to Bosch? Have they
> just not updated their page?
>
> I read that some 4.7l engines didn't have a pinging problem with 87
octane,
> unfortunatley they got the timing retarded with a generic flash that
covers
> all Dakota vehicles. So if I can restore the timing curve I can get my
> mileage back? If it starts to ping I put in colder plugs and t-stat?
>
> As for the exhaust, I alread have a K&N filter so I've covered that
already,
> although there is prolly something better out there.
>
> Incidentally, I just got off a chat with a guy selling one of these magnet
> things. Was trying to get an EPA report out of him. What a joke.
>
> Thanks again for all your help.
>
> Rich
>
>
>
> ""Ronald Wong"" <ron-wong@home.com> wrote in message
> news:NDBBIHDGKKJOIJDEOCBMKEGBEBAA.ron-wong@home.com...
> >
> > 1. New plugs. I believe it was to a colder plug. What does that do
for
> > carbonization of the back sides of the valves? Checked www.boschusa.com
> and
> > they don't list a plug for the 2000 4.7l, maybe that's the reason people
> are
> > telling you not to put them in? On the other hand, NGK makes a direct
> cross
> > in a platinum. Maybe that's the way to go?
> >
> > Answer: The Bosch plugs for your vehicle are 4418 for platinum+4's and
> 4230
> > for platinum's. A lot of DML'ers choose one step colder plug which
would
> > make them 4417 and 4229 respectively. This, again, is for pinging.
> Cooler
> > plugs dissipate more heat from the cylinder area thereby lessening
> possible
> > detonation problems.
> >
> > 2. Timing. What I've gathered from this and other forums is that the
> 4.7l
> > can take more advance than the other models but the timing gets retarded
> > because of a generic flash update that is common to all 2000 (01?)
> Dakotas.
> > The other motors are having more troubles with this than the 4.7l? So
if
> I
> > can find a chip that advances the timing I'll get better economy but
lose
> a
> > little bottom end grunt?
> >
> > Answer: I think it's the other way around. If you advance the timing
> you'll
> > need higher octane fuel. The higher the octane the harder it is to
> ignite.
> > You need this to prevent detonation. When you advance timing your spark
> > gets there sooner. I can see you're trying to get the best of both
worlds
> > here which is really going to be difficult because of the type of
vehicle
> > you have chosen to purchase.
> >
> > 3. Cat back exhaust. So far the only product to make a specific claim
of
> > better mileage in thier ads. My concern is it also says 'more power'.
In
> > general you need X gallons of fuel to make X Hp. So if you make more
> power
> > one would think you'd burn more gas. In most computer controlled motors
> > they adjust the air/fuel mixture so if you alter one side of the
equastion
> > by adding more air, won't the computer just compinsate by adding more
> fuel?
> > The only other explanation is that the exhaust improves on the
efficiency
> > (sp?) of the motor. Are these systems louder/noisier than stock?
> >
> > Answer: Efficiencies of the engine could give you mileage gains but if
you
> > think this one mod will make that big of difference think again. If you
> > free up flow at one end, you need to free up flow at the other. There's
> no
> > point exhaling when you haven't inhaled. Most of these systems are
quite
> a
> > bit louder than stock.
> >
> > 4. Synthetic fluids. I've seen a number of posts regarding this and I
> > think that going to Mobil 1 is gonna be a given. Ran it in my old
vehicle
> > and loved it. I've seen posts saying not to run synthetic transmission
> > fluid for one reason or another, something about the different types of
> > synthetic. You gotta make sure you get the right one or you can cause
> more
> > damage then save. How about differential fluid? It seems to me that
the
> > diff fluid in my truck has the consistency of roofing tar. Sometimes I
> can
> > drive 5 or 6 miles before it locks up and the RPMs drop to normal,
> > especially true in cold weather.
> >
> > I can't speak enough of synthetic fluids. They are a lot more slippery
> than
> > dino oil. No varnish build up. You can run the engine oil for 10K-20K
> > miles with no change provided you change the filter at the normal
> intervals
> > (3K-5K miles) and you use a good filter (NO Fram!). Automatic
> transmissions
> > must have ATF+3 Type 7176 fluid. Synthetics that have these
> specifications
> > are Amsoil and Redline. Differential fluids are 75W90. I believe a lot
> of
> > DML'ers use Amsoil. Most people use Mobil 1 for the engine. It seems
to
> be
> > the easiest to find. I use Castrol Syntec which I buy from Costco at a
> > fairly good price. I haven't had any problems with it, though I believe
> > there was some controversy way back when there was some dispute between
> > Mobil and Castrol.
> >
> > 5. Thermostat. A number of people have suggested this. I'm really not
> > sure what this will do for me. I guess it's feasable that a cooler
> running
> > motor means cooler cylinders and less likelyhood of ping. But I'm not
> > having that problem. If I manage to get the timing advanced maybe I
will?
> > Comments are welcome on this one.
> >
> > Answer: This is another "running the engine cooler" mod. You'll not
> realize
> > any power gains. Will it help economy? Maybe a tad bit. Theory is
your
> > engine runs best at 183º coolant temperature. Therefore a change to a
> 180º
> > t-stat is the best. For those that ping this is a definite change for
the
> > better. For your 4.7 engine changing it is a pain. I have a 5.9 and my
> > timing's advanced. I run 92+ octane fuel but my t-stat is still a 195.
> >
> > 6. Snake oil. Read a few posts about fuel line magnets and fuel
> catalysts
> > but I really wonder what the deal is. I found a report on the EPA page
> > about some of the products that were tested and proven to improve
mileage
> > but haven't been able to read the results from the individual test to
see
> > which one made the biggest change.
> >
> > Answer: You said it right! "Snake oil". Fuel catalysts? You mean
stuff
> > that can increase the octane? Some of those will but it's going to be
> > expensive adding that every time you gas up.
> >
> > HTH,
> > Ron
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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