RE: Avoiding Rotor Warp

From: George Radcliffe (incredageorge@hotmail.com)
Date: Fri May 25 2001 - 15:12:46 EDT


Only if it's the heavy duty model with the twin 15 watt light bulbs...

George
01 CC 4.7 Auto

>Hmmmm...could I use my Mattel Easy Bake oven??? ;-P

Ron
00 PB SLT QC 4X2 5.9 46RE 3.92 LSD
For modifications see my DML Profile (URL follows)
http://www.twistedbits.net/WWWProfile/dakota/Kw9pV1EkFeOYY

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@buffnet.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@buffnet.net]On Behalf Of George Radcliffe
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 11:01 AM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: Re: DML: Avoiding Rotor Warp

<snip>
The reason you should never turn warped rotors is that once warped (better
to say "unevenly heated"), you have forever altered the crystalline
structure of the metal. That structure is now biased and will no longer
conduct the heat evenly, leading to another warp; in my case, 13k miles
later. </snip>

Are rotors usually hardened steel? IOW, when you cut them, do you have to
use high-hardness tools (carbide, ceramic, PCBN, PCD)? Or just regular
high-speed steel cutting tools?

Either way, I suppose you could anneal the rotor, then cut it and be done
(or re-harden and THEN be done). By annealing, you effectively would "undo"
any unwanted changes to the structure of the steel and the crystalline
structure would be the same throughout. Effect: No more warping (unless
something else causes it.)

Annealing steel is easy. Put it in an oven, let it sit in there for about 1
hour, then turn off the oven and come back when it's cool. The catch is
that if you want to "fully" anneal, the oven has to be about 1450 degrees F.
   That's not exactly your average cookie baker. ;)

George Radcliffe
01 CC 4.7 Auto

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