Well,
She's alive again;-). I sort of mixed all the instructions that I received
from everyone. Here is the way that finally worked best for me.
1) Pop the spark plugs out, take off the valve covers, zip tie the radiator
hose and heater core hose out of the way.
2) Take all the Hex nuts out of the 9/16's lock down nuts, put them all in a
magnetic dish if you have one.
3) Rotate the alternator pulley counterclockwise while facing the engine,
keep going until the Intake valve on cylinder 1 compresses and then releases
and the Exhaust valve compresses and releases, turn the alternator a bit
more but the valves your working on shouldn't move anymore.
4) Unscrew the 9/16's roller rockers until COMPLETELY loose. Then, tighten
the 9/16's on these two valves until there is no more up and down movement
on the pushrod and you can barely turn the pushrod, using a 9/16's wrench
hold the it in place while you put the locking nut into place then lock it
down making SURE not to tighten the 9/16's anymore. Do this same thing for
the other valve on the cylinder your working on.
5) I chose to keep turning the alternator until cylinder 3 compressed the
intake, then exhaust, then they leveled out and I adjusted them. You could
just go to the next cylinder in the firing order but I wanted to do the
whole drivers side first starting at Cylinder number 1, then I did 3, 5, and
7. Went to the passenger side and did 2, 4, 6, and 8.
6) With the coil grounded I turned the engine over for 10 seconds, waited,
then turned it over for another 10-15 seconds. Wash, rinse, repeat.
7) I started at cylinder #1 again by turning the alternator and rechecked
every valve, found a couple that were to tight or to loose and fixed them.
8) Did step 6 and 7 again until everything was perfect.
9) Buttoned everything up, put the plugs back in, wired it, got rid of the
zip ties, air hat on, and......
10) Fired it up. Tap tap tap, let her go for a minute, shut her off for a
few then fired her up again. After about 4 times the tap's were completely
gone.
Many thanks to everyone for their help on this. I know some of you are
building web sites with this information, I am as well as time permits. All
of your help was invaluable to me. I'm not stupid, I've just never touched
the valve train before, a web site with this info will save others many a
headaches in the future. I ended up tearing the top off the motor 4 times
to get this right.
Thanks everyone,
Shawn
98 5.2L 4x4 CC
Crower 1.7's;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@BUFFNET.NET
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@BUFFNET.NET]On Behalf Of Andy Levy
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2001 3:28 PM
To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
Subject: Re: DML: Re: WAS Dead Dak,Now Sick Dak;-) " now FAQ"
Thanks for the pointer, Hop. I probably would have glossed over this one,
assuming it was a "general engine builder" question. Looks like there's
value
in putting it in.
HOP wrote:
> Jon,
> This needs to go on the FAQ page that you were putting together...
> Hop...
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sam Parthemer" <srp@home.com>
> > Oh yeah.. once you get TDC on cyl #1, to find the next TDC, you need to
> only
> > rotate the engine 45 degrees (you'll see a smaller timing mark on the
> > harmonic balancer)...as that approaches, check the next cyl in the
firing
> > order (#8) which will close exhaust port.. once the timing marks align
you
> > are at TDC on cyl #8.. tighten, then turn engine another 45 degrees
> (there's
> > another timing mark) you'll be on cyl #4 TDC, tighten, rotate again 45
> > degrees (you guessed it, another small mark) you'll be on #3, continue
#6,
> > #5, #7, and #2. Once you do the first 2 you'll see how easy it is.
> >
> > Because you may have collapsed a few of the lifters, you'll probably
need
> to
> > do this twice unfortunately. Have it so that the pushrod has just a
> little
> > friction when you go to spin them-- take up the slack for the up/down,
> then
> > try to spin the push rods between your fingers like a pencil-- get a
> little
> > resistance, tighten down 1/2 turn and lock 'em down.. Once you do all
of
> > them, you may find that the tapping sound doesn't go away quite as
easily.
> > If it doesn't subside, remove both covers, back off all the rockers, and
> try
> > it one more time (by now the lifters have pumped up, and you can do the
> > install as if fresh from the start-- it will work 10016030267125f the
time from
> this
> > condition).
> >
> > If you have any questions, call me (619) 723-8679.
> >
> > Sam
> >
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