Info on setting up for trailer towing ... (kinda long)

From: DGB (dgbcms@netnet.net)
Date: Tue Jul 31 2001 - 12:09:35 EDT


Well, just spent 2-days getting the new 01 QC setup for
pulling our Viking pop-up and the boat. Learned some
interesting things about the new Dak.

I can see when it comes time to change the shocks on the
rear, it will be a breeze, just two cross bolts, not like my
'94 that had two bolts on the top of a cross-member with no
room for your fingers to get between it and the box bottom.
Custom bending a wrench helped.

Surprisingly enough, the 2" hitch was a direct bolt-up from
the '94.

When I went to run the wires for the electric brake
controller, much to my dismay, there was an unused feed-thru
for routing wires from the cab out. Have to commend Chrysler
for that, no drilling. It's a cap/grommet that I sliced a
cross in the center for feeding thru the wires.

If you're going to run a wire for the electric brakes on a
trailer, tap off the white with pink strip wire at the end
of the connector on the stop-light switch, way-way under the
dash, different from the '94 or GenII's. Seemed like there
was more room under the QC's dash for routing of wires too.
My Tekonsha electric brake controller mounted nicely just to
the left of the aux. power socket to the lower right of the
steering column. I used heavy duty Velcro from Rad Shak.
Putting it anywhere down there on the ls or rs of the
steering column just wasn't possible on the '94 because
interference with my long legs. :-)

While under the hood I notice the addition of an electric
cooling fan and the clutch fan isn't as noisy either as the
GenII was. The circuit breakers for the additional wiring of
the trailer and my ham radio setup mounted nicely just to
the rear of the battery on the left upper/inner fender
liner. Wires were easily routed across the fire wall to the
grommet on the rs. Used wire wraps to contain and hold them
up to the existing harness.

Right after I got it the QC, I noticed a build-up of bugs on
the radiator and AC so I put some dark gray fiberglass
window screen with tie-wraps across the front of that. After
2-weeks I've noticed no increase in operating temps and can
see it's working. It's sure alot easier to take that off for
a rinse then the alternative.

Next I have to install the factory tranny cooler. Guess I'm
gonna have to bite the bullet and buy the ATF+4 at $7.50/qt
as I've found no alternative, just glad it's a synthetic.

Hope this info help's somebody in the future.

Dwight in WI
01 QC Patriot Blue V-6 2wd,
now with 4500 miles and 22 mpg on the last tank!



This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jun 20 2003 - 12:02:15 EDT