Time to go over your vacuum lines with a fine tooth comb. More often than
not you may have a vacuum leak somewhere, and a general visual inspection
will not reveal anything. If possible see of you can get the fuel pressure
checked.
----- Original Message -----
From: "brent" <urbansoul@london.com>
To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2001 8:54 AM
Subject: Re: DML: Re: computer for a 94 v6
> thanks for the info kevin.
> i did check the splice and it was slightly corroded so i fixed it, but
> it still runs rough.
> the next thing im gonna try is deox-ing the connector at the pcm, as a
> just in case.
> im not wanting to buy a new comp just yet, i was hoping someone had a
> spare that i could try first before making the investment.
>
> dan: i checked the compression a while ago and it was fine all the way
> round. dont remember the numbers but they were all pretty close. within
> 10-15 psi of each other.
>
> anyone else have any ideas??
>
> thanks.
> brent
>
>
> Kevin wrote:
> >
> > Gen II Dakota's have a wiring problem near the fuse box in the engine
> > compartment
> > Q:
> > Intermittent: GenII stalling while driving, will not run, no power to
the
> > computer, will not start.
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
-- > > ---- > > > > Right below the underhood fusebox, about 8" down the harness is a splice > > (#115), from that splice, it powers the PCM, Fuel Pump, and Coil. All four > > wires are Red/white, one comes from the fusebox, two go right back up to the > > relays, and the fourth goes the opposite direction to the PCM. You will have > > to unbolt the fusebox, pull it out of the way, and cut open the tape on the > > harness to find the splice. > > > > I guess what happens is that water gets into the fusebox, drains down the > > harness, and eventually corrodes the splice into green powder (oxidized > > copper). You cannot tell if it is bad by looking at it, you will have to cut > > the tape off of the splice and inspect the connection. If you see and green > > or white residue on the connection under the tape, it has started to go bad > > and needs to be re-done (preferably by soldering). > > > > This problem can be very intermittent, sometimes just a single miss while > > cruising down the highway, sometimes just a long cranking time, mine was > > even sensitive to temperature (28-40F) and high humidity. The problem in my > > 94 Dak occurred intermittently 30+ times and over $1000 in parts over a > > year. Finally one day it just died in Toledo, luckily I was walking distance > > from Vin Devers Dodge. When I got there, they were closing in 5 minutes, one > > of the mechanics there said he new exactly what the problem was, grabbed > > some tools and drove me back to my truck to fix it, AFTER CLOSING TIME! This > > guy earned every penny CryCo pays him. Never had the problem since, 80,000 > > miles later. > > > > My 95 Dak just refused to start one day after I replaced my 14x3 K&N with a > > 14x4 filter. When I was done it would not start! It was just a coincidence, > > as it turns out, but I sure was confused at the time. I checked the splice > > as a hunch after I could not get a voltage reading at the PCM. Sure enough, > > after I cut the harness to get a better look at I thought that the splice > > looked fine, but I gave it a little tug to get a closer look, and it snapped > > in half! Up until that time, I never had it die, it never stumbled, nothing. > > I even drove the truck the night before and never even a stumble. > > > > A guy I work with also has a 93 Dak that had the exact same problems. > > > > The point I'm tying to make is that this is a big problem on 92-95 Daks and > > you need to check it if you own one. Chances are if you ever drove in the > > rain, yours has already started corroding. > > > > ent. I have the pasted the info from the DML FAQ page below. Check this out > > before you buy a new computer. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "brent venis" <urbansoul@london.com> > > To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net> > > Sent: Friday, August 03, 2001 01:43 > > Subject: DML: computer for a 94 v6 > > > > > i think my computer is funked up. > > > > > > my dak has been running rough for quite a while, and ive tried changing > > > everything i can think of. new timing chain, exhaust, intake manifold > > > gaskets. all with no real results. > > > it runs like it is missing one of the cylinders. ive thought it was some > > > kind of fuel delivery or timing issue, then about two weeks ago, i fired > > > it up and it ran perfectly. > > > for about two minutes. > > > it did this several times and is now back to running rough all the time. > > > > > > soooo.... does anyone have a spare comp for a 94 v6 that i could borrow > > > for a week or so? or at least some other ideas about what the hell is > > > going on? > > > whatever you may need as far as a deposit and such is no problem, i can > > > pay shipping both ways. whatever. i need to get this problem fixed. > > > > > > extra info- 94 v6 cc, 142k, fabm intake, flowmaster muffler, accel coil, > > > 3923's. > > > > > > two side notes- > > > i bought a borg cap and rotor a couple weeks ago and i went to put them > > > on and they were not brass. wtf?? same part number as always. anybody > > > else run into this? > > > > > > i will probably be selling a flowmaster #942552 in a couple of weeks. > > > this is the "flowmaster recommended" muffler for 94-96 v6 and v8's. > > > seems there was a shipping error and i got two. bonus!! > > > just a heads up, i will make an offical sale announcement later. > > > > > > thanks for all your help. > > > > > > > > > brent > > > >
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