Re: Re: computer for a 94 v6

From: Kevin (ksmith@korea.com)
Date: Sat Aug 04 2001 - 01:48:36 EDT


Time to go over your vacuum lines with a fine tooth comb. More often than
not you may have a vacuum leak somewhere, and a general visual inspection
will not reveal anything. If possible see of you can get the fuel pressure
checked.
----- Original Message -----
From: "brent" <urbansoul@london.com>
To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2001 8:54 AM
Subject: Re: DML: Re: computer for a 94 v6

> thanks for the info kevin.
> i did check the splice and it was slightly corroded so i fixed it, but
> it still runs rough.
> the next thing im gonna try is deox-ing the connector at the pcm, as a
> just in case.
> im not wanting to buy a new comp just yet, i was hoping someone had a
> spare that i could try first before making the investment.
>
> dan: i checked the compression a while ago and it was fine all the way
> round. dont remember the numbers but they were all pretty close. within
> 10-15 psi of each other.
>
> anyone else have any ideas??
>
> thanks.
> brent
>
>
> Kevin wrote:
> >
> > Gen II Dakota's have a wiring problem near the fuse box in the engine
> > compartment
> > Q:
> > Intermittent: GenII stalling while driving, will not run, no power to
the
> > computer, will not start.
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------

--
> > ----
> >
> > Right below the underhood fusebox, about 8" down the harness is a splice
> > (#115), from that splice, it powers the PCM, Fuel Pump, and Coil. All
four
> > wires are Red/white, one comes from the fusebox, two go right back up to
the
> > relays, and the fourth goes the opposite direction to the PCM. You will
have
> > to unbolt the fusebox, pull it out of the way, and cut open the tape on
the
> > harness to find the splice.
> >
> > I guess what happens is that water gets into the fusebox, drains down
the
> > harness, and eventually corrodes the splice into green powder (oxidized
> > copper). You cannot tell if it is bad by looking at it, you will have to
cut
> > the tape off of the splice and inspect the connection. If you see and
green
> > or white residue on the connection under the tape, it has started to go
bad
> > and needs to be re-done (preferably by soldering).
> >
> > This problem can be very intermittent, sometimes just a single miss
while
> > cruising down the highway, sometimes just a long cranking time, mine was
> > even sensitive to temperature (28-40F) and high humidity. The problem in
my
> > 94 Dak occurred intermittently 30+ times and over $1000 in parts over a
> > year. Finally one day it just died in Toledo, luckily I was walking
distance
> > from Vin Devers Dodge. When I got there, they were closing in 5 minutes,
one
> > of the mechanics there said he new exactly what the problem was, grabbed
> > some tools and drove me back to my truck to fix it, AFTER CLOSING TIME!
This
> > guy earned every penny CryCo pays him. Never had the problem since,
80,000
> > miles later.
> >
> > My 95 Dak just refused to start one day after I replaced my 14x3 K&N
with a
> > 14x4 filter. When I was done it would not start! It was just a
coincidence,
> > as it turns out, but I sure was confused at the time. I checked the
splice
> > as a hunch after I could not get a voltage reading at the PCM. Sure
enough,
> > after I cut the harness to get a better look at I thought that the
splice
> > looked fine, but I gave it a little tug to get a closer look, and it
snapped
> > in half! Up until that time, I never had it die, it never stumbled,
nothing.
> > I even drove the truck the night before and never even a stumble.
> >
> > A guy I work with also has a 93 Dak that had the exact same problems.
> >
> > The point I'm tying to make is that this is a big problem on 92-95 Daks
and
> > you need to check it if you own one. Chances are if you ever drove in
the
> > rain, yours has already started corroding.
> >
> > ent. I have the pasted the info from the DML FAQ page below. Check this
out
> > before you buy a new computer.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "brent venis" <urbansoul@london.com>
> > To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
> > Sent: Friday, August 03, 2001 01:43
> > Subject: DML: computer for a 94 v6
> >
> > > i think my computer is funked up.
> > >
> > > my dak has been running rough for quite a while, and ive tried
changing
> > > everything i can think of. new timing chain, exhaust, intake manifold
> > > gaskets. all with no real results.
> > > it runs like it is missing one of the cylinders. ive thought it was
some
> > > kind of fuel delivery or timing issue, then about two weeks ago, i
fired
> > > it up and it ran perfectly.
> > > for about two minutes.
> > > it did this several times and is now back to running rough all the
time.
> > >
> > > soooo.... does anyone have a spare comp for a 94 v6 that i could
borrow
> > > for a week or so? or at least some other ideas about what the hell is
> > > going on?
> > > whatever you may need as far as a deposit and such is no problem, i
can
> > > pay shipping both ways. whatever. i need to get this problem fixed.
> > >
> > > extra info- 94 v6 cc, 142k, fabm intake, flowmaster muffler, accel
coil,
> > > 3923's.
> > >
> > > two side notes-
> > > i bought a borg cap and rotor a couple weeks ago and i went to put
them
> > > on and they were not brass. wtf?? same part number as always. anybody
> > > else run into this?
> > >
> > > i will probably be selling a flowmaster #942552 in a couple of weeks.
> > > this is the "flowmaster recommended" muffler for 94-96 v6 and v8's.
> > > seems there was a shipping error and i got two. bonus!!
> > > just a heads up, i will make an offical sale announcement later.
> > >
> > > thanks for all your help.
> > >
> > >
> > > brent
> > >
>



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