Thanks!
Mark Kuzia
flyboy01@mediaone.net
http://people.mw.mediaone.net/flyboy01/home.html
1995 Dakota 13.79 @ 102.45 mph "Fastdak"
~360ci, 5-spd, 8 3/4 rear / 3.90-SG
1994 Dakota 15.36 @ 91.56 mph
~318ci, 5-spd, 3.90 LS (bone stock, no mods)
----- Original Message -----
From: "brad k" <brad70_98@yahoo.com>
To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 12:16 AM
Subject: Re: DML: Stroker Crankshaft Information
>
> Mark,
>
> It looks like Mancini racing has two different rods
> available:
> Eagle H Beam 4340 525$
> Eagle I Beam 5140 229$
>
> Hughes Engineering also has two different rods:
> 5140 I Beam 330$
> 4340 H Beam 440$
> (Hmmm, looks similar to what Mancini has, but no
> brand name given!)
>
> It also looks like Crower, Manley, and Carrillo make
> connecting rods for the 360 engines.
>
> I'm just guessing that the "A" engine rods will work
> in the Magnum motors. I guess I should have asked
> when I was on the phone with the Mopar Tech Line :-)
> Check before you buy!!!
>
>
> Brad
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 98 Dakota CC 4x4 5.2L, 3.55LSD, 32x11.5 BFG M/T
> Gibson Cat Back Exhaust, JBA headers and Y-Pipe
> MP PCM, 180 T-stat, 3923's, Taylor Wires,
> Accel Cap/Rotor, Ported TB, K&N FIPK2, IAT Adjuster
> ---------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
> --- Mark Kuzia <flyboy01@mediaone.net> wrote:
> > Where on earth can you get a set of I-beams rods for
> > under $250? I have
> > never seen rods that cheap.
> >
> > Mark Kuzia
> > flyboy01@mediaone.net
> > http://people.mw.mediaone.net/flyboy01/home.html
> > 1995 Dakota 13.79 @ 102.45 mph "Fastdak"
> > ~360ci, 5-spd, 8 3/4 rear / 3.90-SG
> > 1994 Dakota 15.36 @ 91.56 mph
> > ~318ci, 5-spd, 3.90 LS (bone stock, no mods)
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <bernd@texas.net>
> > To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 11:47 AM
> > Subject: Re: DML: Stroker Crankshaft Information
> >
> >
> > >
> > > There's more to it than just the crank though.
> > You'll get 402" with just
> > the
> > > crank (and you'll need to notch the block) and
> > 408" with the pistons @
> > .030"
> > > overbore (also have to notch the block). Also,
> > there's much more involved
> > than
> > > just crank and pistons as well. The stock rods
> > (while they are adequate)
> > are
> > > not recommended for the 408 Stroker as they have
> > to be reconditioned and
> > the
> > > cost for this (with the pins) is the same as a new
> > set of I-Beams (all
> > ready
> > > for installation).
> > >
> > > If you replace the crank, you might as well
> > rebalance the reciprocating
> > > assembly for reliability. This presents another
> > option: Internal or
> > External
> > > balancing. While Internal balancing may be what
> > most like to have done,
> > it is
> > > more expensive and will require a different
> > dampner and flexplate. Have
> > it
> > > externally balanced with a new Mopar flexplate and
> > dampner or...save a
> > little
> > > bit of money by having your existing dampner and
> > flexplate used for the
> > > balancing.
> > >
> > > - Bernd
> > >
> > >
> > > > FYI for anyone interested in stroking their 360.
> > > >
> > > > I just called the Mopar Tech line and asked
> > which
> > > > crankshaft would work with the 360 Magnum
> > motors. They
> > > >
> > > > said any of the one listed in the catalog would
> > work,
> > > > so here are the 360 crankshaft part numbers:
> > > >
> > > > P5007258 4" stroke Heavy Duty Cast Crank
> > > > P5007254 4" stroke 4340 steel forged crank
> > > >
> > > > Mopar Tech line: 248-969-1690
> > > > Magnum Engine Tech line: 1-800-362-3569
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Brad
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
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