I dont like the mileage on the timing chain. Regardless it looks ok when you
throw a light on it,most of the time it will, try and check the timing with
the light hooked to the # 6 0r # 8 cylinder wire,( you did not specify 8 or
6 cyl engine) and see how far off timing really is. this works, and or
disconnect battery cable, you may need to remove spark plugs for this one)
and grab hold of crank pulley and roatate all the way to the left and mark
pulley with chalk at 12;00 position then rotate to right as far as it will
till it stops, mark at 12;00 position,, how far off are the chalk marks, yes
about 1 -1 1/2 inches i bet, stretched chain, need to replace with new gears
also.
----- Original Message -----
From: <joe@dokes.com>
To: <dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2002 5:40 PM
Subject: DML: 88 Dakota 4x4 No Power :-{
> Hi Im new to the group but my truck isnt.I bought it new in 87 and
> have purchased a 2001 Wrangler which has given me the ability to put
> the ole dodge back in order again.
> What Ive got going is 4x4 long bed that has an engine with 210,000
> miles. No major engine work. The timing chain has never been replaced.
> no top end or lower rebuilds The fuel injectors where replaced about
> 5000 miles ago.
> Symtoms:
> When you whack the throttle wide open she dies. If you feather the gas
> pedal you can get the truck up to speed but still have total loss of
> power. It backfires thru the throttlebody when you accelerate hard
> also. The exhaust also sounds like it may be backfiring but its hard
> to tell since the tail pipe is missing. Can't belive it I've never
> replaced any exhaust components since new and the thing has gone thru
> wisconsin road salting for almost 15 years!
> Observations:
> 1 Full tank of good gas
> 2 vaccuum pressure is aprox 22 inches of mercury? pretty steady
> although its only about 20 when idling. gun the engine she slows back
> down and its about 22 inches again and will hold there.
> 3 New Plugs plug wires rotor and cap.
> 4 timing looks ok advances properly but i didnt follow factory
> guidelines. Put the light on and dialed her in at about 750 RPM.
> 5 not a bad idle for 210,000 miles farily smooth
> 6 checked most of the electrical connections reseated them.
> 7 removed oxegen sensor. looked ok didnt do factory test as
> outlined in shop manual tan in color no deposits.
> 8 old plugs showed signs of cold fouling ie light tan in color
> yet sooty in apperance. no signs of black smoke from the tail pipe
> like she was burning to rich more like incomplete combustion?
> 9 didnt check the fuel pressure yet heading out to the garage
> tonight :-) Cracked open the return fitting to the gas tank at the
> throttle body gas was pressent.
> 10 havent noticed the whoosh sound from the gas tank went I open
> up the cap. Lack of pressure a bad sign?
> 11 noticed a connection on top of the fuel pump with a little
> cap that looks like a tire valve stem cap. Well anyway this nipple or
> whatever was wet but I also noticed this after i over filled the gas
> tank since the fuel gauge hasnt worked for about the last 100,000
> miles
> 12 no signs of oil fouling on plugs. Havnt done a compression
> test.
> 13 tappet noise. always had it
> 14 oil pressure all of a sudden drops then comes back up. Thats
> what the gauge says. True reading? The service manual talked about a
> bushing under the oil sending unit that may need to be checked to see
> if its seated to its proper depth.
> Am I wasting my time on this tired motor? Jasper engines will retail a
> motor for $2165.00 Plus my engine Is that a good way to go? Will they
> discount off this list price or am i better off rebuilding my old
> motor.? Seems like they have a pretty good warranty. 3 years 75,000
> miles? Thanks for any help you people can offer. Im love this stupid
> truck :-|
>
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