Jon,
If you need a new hood use the parts finder places to see if you can find
one. I don't think there were any changes for the '91 to '96 models years so
the hinge mounts and latch should all be the same. I know I have found many
dakota parts in teh past this way. It shouldn't be that expensive to sjip a
hood if needed.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon" <jonsdak@midmaine.com>
To: <dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 5:13 PM
Subject: Re: DML: Please help! '96 Dakota hood latch failure?
>
> I ordered the hinges, my dad's going to look at it to see if he can bend
> them enough to at least shut, so I can drive it to work and school until
the
> hinges come in. If he succeeds, trust me, a safety wire will be installed
> somehow! That's not an experience I want to repeat for the rest of my
> natural life.
>
> --
> Later,
> Jon
> jonsdak@midmaine.com
> http://jonsdakota.tripod.com
> 1996 Dodge Dakota Sport 4X4, 3.9L V6, 42RE, 3.92:1 8.25 axle, "BackRack"
> Headache Rack, Dodge Motorsports decals, steering wheel cover, and front
> license plate, diamond-plate bedrail covers, Lund VentVisors, Lund
> BugShield, Jensen MP-3310 CD/MP3 Receiver, Pioneer TS-G1347's in front,
> TS-A5713's in rear
> <jon@dakota-truck.net> wrote in message
> news:aju8ju$pur$1@bent.twistedbits.net...
> >
> > "Jon" <jonsdak@midmaine.com> wrote:
> >
> > : Driving down the road, 3/4 of a mile from my house this morning,
50mph,
> > : suddenly my windshield is black. My hood has flown up!
> > : I manage to safely bring the truck to a stop, ease it off the road. I
> get
> > : out, and the hood hinges on the back are all bent out of shape, I
muscle
> the
> > : hood down so I could see to limp to my grandparents, 300yd down the
> road.
> > : Once I'm there, I inspect it further, and the right edge of the hood
now
> > : sits on the fender. Is there a recall on these latches, or is it a
> fluke?
> > : I had just vacuumed the truck out before this, and I thought I might
> have
> > : hit the latch release with my elbow when vacuuming the
t-case/driveshaft
> > : hump, but the lever, to disengagae, tilts to the left, and takes quite
a
> bit
> > : of muscle to pull (as anyone with a '96 Dak, or maybe even a Ram,
> knows), so
> > : I can't believe that I could just bump it enough to disengage the
latch
> > : without knowing it, especially on the elbow, a sensitive spot. Even
if
> I
> > : had, though, shouldn't the underhood latch kept it shut? It probably
> would
> > : have rattled (that was another thing, it didn't rattle at all before
it
> flew
> > : up), but I would think that the latch should have kept it from flying
up
> > : like that. This latch is in perfect condition, on inspection. My
> biggest
> > : problem is, the hinges are bent, I can't close my hood, and I need my
> truck
> > : for the rest of this week for work, and then next week for school, and
> my
> > : Dodge stealer needs to special-order the hinges, which will take two
> weeks,
> > : they say. I can't be truckless for two weeks.
> > : Any info or ideas well appreciated!
> >
> >
> > Ouch! Sorry to hear about that! The same thing almost happened
> > to me in my '96 Dak on the way down to the Nats. I had popped the hood
> > at a gas stop to top off my winshield washer fluid. I guess I hadn't
> > closed the hood securely, because once I got out onto the highway, it
> > popped up and started fluttering. Fortunately, the safety on the latch
> > caught it, and I was able to pull over and close the hood firmly.
> >
> > When you pull the release in the cab, the main latch will release,
> > but there is a spring in there so that the latch catches before the
> > hood opens fully (which requires you to reach in with your hand and
> > release the catch before you can open the hood). I'm guessing the
> > hood went from fully closed to fully open? Does the latch move freely?
> > Maybe if it were rusted up a bit the spring didn't have enough force
> > to move the latch back before the hood passed by the "catch" point.
> >
> > As far as using the truck goes, in a pinch you could just unbolt the
> > hood and drive around without it. (Might want to check your local
> > laws first.) At night or when parked, a tarp over the engine bay
> > could keep most of the rain off.
> >
> > If you know anyone with a torch, it might be possible to heat the
> > hinges up and bend them back into place in order to at least get
> > the hood to shut and stay shut.
> >
> > Another alternative would be to check other dealers for new hinges,
> > or on-line salvage yards (see the DML faq for URLs dakota-truck.net/faq)
> >
> > Is this covered under an extended warranty or insurance? If
> > so, either of those might cover (or partially cover) the cost of
> > a rental car (or truck).
> >
> > After reading your post, and after what happened to me on the way
> > to the nats, I think I am going to look into rigging up a safety wire,
> > from the latch to the truck, that will only allow the hood to open
> > up 6" or so. (Just got to be careful to do it so it doesn't get
> > in the way of the fan, probably do it in front of the radiator.)
> >
> > Good luck!
> >
> > --
> >
> > -Jon-
> >
> > .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or
> jon@jonsteiger.com -----.
> > | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL
> |
> > | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96
FireFly
> |
> > `-----------------------------------------
> http://www.jonsteiger.com ----'
>
>
>
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