the .525 lift ones are the r/t springs. They are the ones you need since
your cam has a max lift of .512
>From: "Gary Hedlin" <ghedlin@theramp.net>
>Reply-To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
>To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
>Subject: Re: DML: Back With Avengance
>Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 01:31:31 -0500
>
>ok... I looked in the mopar catalog for the valve springs, and theres 2 in
>there. One has a .400 /.525 lift range, the other has a .480 / .600 lift
>range. What one should I use for the V6?
>
>
>--
>Gary Hedlin
>"The Crazy Quadraplegic"
>ghedlin@theramp.net (business)
>ragingquad@yahoo.com (personal)
>**Also Webmaster For**
>http://garyhedlin.com
>http://socaldakota.com
>http://scsilverdak.com
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>...And Many More!
>
><jon@dakota-truck.net> wrote in message
>news:ambqd7$h1o$1@bent.twistedbits.net...
> >
> > "Gary Hedlin" <ghedlin@theramp.net> wrote:
> >
> > : hmm... never thought about that.
> >
> > : would that require removing the heads?
> >
> >
> > No, you can replace the valve springs with the heads still on;
> > all you need is a valve spring compressor (Autozone will loan you
> > one for free, or you can buy it for about $15) and a compression
> > tester which uses an air compressor quick-disconnect for the
> > gauge. Disconnect the gauge from the hose, and use a tire valve
> > stem remover to remove the schraeder valve. Screw the hose
> > into the spark plug hole for the cylinder you're replacing the
> > springs on, connect the hose up to an air compressor - that will
> > pressurize the cylinder and hold the valves against the head.
> > Compress the valve spring with the valve spring compressor, and
> > move it down towards the head. You may need to tap the compressor
> > with a hammer to break the spring loose. You just need to compress
> > it enough to be able to remove the retainers at the top of the valve
> > stem. (I have had good success with using a magnetic pick-up
> > tool to "suck" the retainers off the valve stem, which has the
> > side benefit of making it impossible for you to drop a retainer
> > and lose it.) Then, you can pull the spring off the valve and
> > disconnect the air hose to relieve the pressure in the cylinder.
> > Before I do that, I like to put one of those plastic clamps
> > on the valve stem just to be certain it won't drop down into
> > the cylinder. (If that happens, you will probably have to remove
> > the head because the chances of fishing it back up into the head
> > are basically slim to none - especially if it is a stainless
> > valve which you won't be able to guide with a magnet...)
> >
> > Be sure to wear eye protection when using the valve spring
> > compressor!
> >
> > Note: I've never done this on a Magnum engine - my experience
> > was with a big block Chrysler, but the procedure should be the same.
> > I documented the procedure on my home page, if you're interested,
> > check out http://jonsteiger.com/barracuda and click on "Project
> > Horsepower". Photos 046-049 detail how to use an "on the engine"
> > style valve spring compressor, although I am using it on a head on a
> > bench. Photos 057-060 show doing it on the engine with an air
> > compressor as I described above. Photo 056 shows what I meant
> > about using a plastic clamp to prevent the valves from dropping
> > down into the engine.
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > -Jon-
> >
> > .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or
>jon@jonsteiger.com -----.
> > | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL
>|
> > | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96
>FireFly
>|
> > `-----------------------------------------
>http://www.jonsteiger.com ----'
Greg Conner
1996 RC
3.9 hybrid
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