----- Original Message -----
From: "andy levy" <andylevy@yahoo.com>
To: <dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: DML: paint care questions - Paul
>
> Tubamirbls@aol.com wrote:
> > The body shop head strongly urged new car owners not to put any
polishes
> > on their cars for at least 6 months saying that the curing time for
water
> > base clearcoat needed that much. He admitted that some of us could have
> > bought a car last week that has already sat in dealer inventory for 6
mos so
> > he suggested we check the build date sticker on the driver's door frame
to
> > gauge our timeline. And when we do begin annual polish applications to
make
> > certain we never use any abrasive product, especially "rubbing
compounds."
>
> Shouldn't the finish be baked at the factory, eliminating any need for
> "curing time"?
>
>
> --
> -andy
>
> http://home.twcny.rr.com/andylevy/ --- andylevy@yahoo.com
> --------------------------------------------
> modesty, n.:
> Being comfortable that others will discover your greatness
> --------------------------------------------
>
>
The local body shop I use here (which is very good btw) siad them same thing
when I took my fathers Cherokee there from being side swiped. The finish
form the factory is urethane (including clear coat) and they bake the paint
alot hotter to instantly cure it when the vehicle is being built (no body
panels and such to worry about at that stage to melt or whatnot). He did
explain that when we got the Jeep back that we had to wait about two weeks
to wash it and about a month to wax it since his lamps don't get that hot
and he also sets them slightly lower to get a better curing process out of
his shop (his paint job are perfect and you would never be able to tell a
vehicle was repaired form there).
As for the whole bufer thing, I have been using a low speed buffer for the
last fourteen years on several cars including my parents and have never had
problems with swirl marks. As long as you know what you are doing and use a
good polish (I usually start with a swirl remover, then go to a good carnuba
polish, and finish off with a good sealer) you should never have a problem.
The biggest key is the right pads and never to let the buffer sit in one
spot on the paint but to also move it around smoothly but not really fast.
Maybe the reason they told you this at the pontiac dealer is GM had some
really big problems with their paint in the late eighties and early
nineties. I know, been there done that.
Jeff Durling
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Feb 06 2004 - 11:45:45 EST