Damn, thats a nice weld!!! ;)
Gary Hedlin
<jon@dakota-truck.net> wrote in message
news:b3iu0t$lt2$1@bent.twistedbits.net...
>
> rashort <rashort@swbell.net> wrote:
>
> : Most shops use oxy/acetlyene for exhaust, because it's easier to control
> : burnthrough and it's also easier to bend the rod and fit the torch into
> : tight places. Cheaper too. I've used a mig to weld many exhausts, but
> : you have to run the bead in strips. It's next to impossible to weld
> : continuously around a 360 degree pipe with a mig, which leaves more
> : possibilities for leaks, but as I said, it CAN be done. It just won't be
> : pretty. Most shops that I know of use migs to tack pieces, then they go
> : back and weld them oxy/acetylene.
>
>
> That's true - a disadvantage of MIG when welding exhausts is the
> general lack of clearance, and also the fact that most MIGs generally
> don't weld very well upside down. However, I have also seen the results
> of shops which weld up the exhaust with oxy/acetylene when its still on
> the car - the previous owner of my Cuda had this done and it was a real
> hack job. There are probably people who are good enough to get away with
> it, but IMHO, the exhaust really should be dropped down away from the
> vehicle to weld it up.
>
> When I am welding up an exhaust, I put the pieces in position on
> the vehicle and hold them in place with a few tack welds, then I
> unbolt them and let them swing down or just remove it from the vehicle
> altogether to fully weld it up.
>
> I developed a technique for MIG welding exhaust pipes which works
> very well for me - instead of laying down a bead which will probably
> look messy and/or burn through, I "stitch" it together with a series
> of what are more or less spot welds. I start at one point, and keep
> going around the circumference of the pipe, overlapping each spot weld
> by about half a weld's width. It is strong, creates a good seal,
> is much harder to burn through, and looks decent. Here's an example
> from when I was doing an exhaust for my '96 Dakota last year:
>
> http://www.jonsteiger.com/www/misc/dakmuffler/IMAG0003.JPG
>
> Another tip: after the exhaust is welded up, I like to hit the weld
> with a wire brush or wheel, then top it off with some high temp exhaust
> system paint (1400-1500 degree). That should help to keep rust at
> bay since the heat from the welding will burn away the aluminized coating
> and the pipe (and weld) will start to flash rust almost immediately
> unless protected from the elements.
>
>
> As far as my welder goes, I use a Hobart IronMan 250 which is a 220V
> welder with a built in cart and bottle stand.
> (http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/IronMan250.html)
>
> Its a nice versatile unit which can use standard or flux core wire,
> can weld stainless with stainless wire, and with the addition of a $250
> spool gun, can also weld aluminum. A bit overkill if all you will be
> doing is exhaust tubing though.
>
> --
>
> -Jon-
>
> .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or
jon@jonsteiger.com ------.
> | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL
|
> | 70 Cuda, 90 Dak 'vert, 92 Ram 4x4, 96 Dak, 96 Intruder 1400, 96 FireFly
|
> `------------------------------------------
http://www.jonsteiger.com ----'
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Feb 06 2004 - 11:45:52 EST
