In my opinion, the best way to weld exhaust is Tig. I did this for the
exhaust on my truck. Make it look almost seamless.
Just my .02
Tom
Gary Hedlin wrote:
>Damn, thats a nice weld!!! ;)
>
>Gary Hedlin
>
>
><jon@dakota-truck.net> wrote in message
>news:b3iu0t$lt2$1@bent.twistedbits.net...
>
>
>>rashort <rashort@swbell.net> wrote:
>>
>>: Most shops use oxy/acetlyene for exhaust, because it's easier to control
>>: burnthrough and it's also easier to bend the rod and fit the torch into
>>: tight places. Cheaper too. I've used a mig to weld many exhausts, but
>>: you have to run the bead in strips. It's next to impossible to weld
>>: continuously around a 360 degree pipe with a mig, which leaves more
>>: possibilities for leaks, but as I said, it CAN be done. It just won't be
>>: pretty. Most shops that I know of use migs to tack pieces, then they go
>>: back and weld them oxy/acetylene.
>>
>>
>> That's true - a disadvantage of MIG when welding exhausts is the
>>general lack of clearance, and also the fact that most MIGs generally
>>don't weld very well upside down. However, I have also seen the results
>>of shops which weld up the exhaust with oxy/acetylene when its still on
>>the car - the previous owner of my Cuda had this done and it was a real
>>hack job. There are probably people who are good enough to get away with
>>it, but IMHO, the exhaust really should be dropped down away from the
>>vehicle to weld it up.
>>
>> When I am welding up an exhaust, I put the pieces in position on
>>the vehicle and hold them in place with a few tack welds, then I
>>unbolt them and let them swing down or just remove it from the vehicle
>>altogether to fully weld it up.
>>
>> I developed a technique for MIG welding exhaust pipes which works
>>very well for me - instead of laying down a bead which will probably
>>look messy and/or burn through, I "stitch" it together with a series
>>of what are more or less spot welds. I start at one point, and keep
>>going around the circumference of the pipe, overlapping each spot weld
>>by about half a weld's width. It is strong, creates a good seal,
>>is much harder to burn through, and looks decent. Here's an example
>>from when I was doing an exhaust for my '96 Dakota last year:
>>
>> http://www.jonsteiger.com/www/misc/dakmuffler/IMAG0003.JPG
>>
>> Another tip: after the exhaust is welded up, I like to hit the weld
>>with a wire brush or wheel, then top it off with some high temp exhaust
>>system paint (1400-1500 degree). That should help to keep rust at
>>bay since the heat from the welding will burn away the aluminized coating
>>and the pipe (and weld) will start to flash rust almost immediately
>>unless protected from the elements.
>>
>>
>> As far as my welder goes, I use a Hobart IronMan 250 which is a 220V
>>welder with a built in cart and bottle stand.
>>(http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/IronMan250.html)
>>
>> Its a nice versatile unit which can use standard or flux core wire,
>>can weld stainless with stainless wire, and with the addition of a $250
>>spool gun, can also weld aluminum. A bit overkill if all you will be
>>doing is exhaust tubing though.
>>
>>--
>>
>> -Jon-
>>
>> .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or
>>
>>
>jon@jonsteiger.com ------.
>
>
>> | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL
>>
>>
>|
>
>
>> | 70 Cuda, 90 Dak 'vert, 92 Ram 4x4, 96 Dak, 96 Intruder 1400, 96 FireFly
>>
>>
>|
>
>
>> `------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>http://www.jonsteiger.com ----'
>
>
>
>
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Feb 06 2004 - 11:45:52 EST
