> -----Original Message-----
> Mopar Performance sells an oil priming shaft for about $5 that you put
> in an electric drill. You remove the distributor, put the shaft in place,
> and run the drill. The next best method would probably be to disconnect
> the coil wire and crank over the engine. (Of course, using that method,
> all of the internal parts in the engine are moving so there will be some
> wear if they are not already lubricated, but arguably, its better than
> just starting the engine.)
>
> -- -Jon-
Jon, you remember my old Challenger which had sat for 5 or 6 years. There
was some concern about trying to start it after all that time so the first
test was to see if it was frozen up. I put a wrench on the crank bolt and
it turned easily. Ok so far. Then we were going to lube it with the
priming shaft but couldn't get the distributor drive gear out. Only thing
left to do was crank it with the starter. That got some oil pressure going
so next we fired it up. Amazingly, it ran fine and didn't smoke. When I
sold it, the new owner began racing it and with a few bolt-ons got that 318
running 14.0's. This winter he sold the 318 to another friend of mine and
replaced it with the original 360. The 318 has been torn down for some
healthier mods for another race car. When I inquired about the internal
condition of that 318 I was told it looked almost new inside! Cylinder
walls, bearings, everything...all in excellent condition! Who'd have
thought! :-) This should be a commercial for Pennzoil as that's all I ever
used in that engine.
RayB
http://www.dragtruk.com/ENTRIES/20KM1FD2KWBP.html
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