jon@dakota-truck.net wrote:
> I'm pretty sure it isn't. Sounds like the chain was touching.
> (This probably also means there are metal shavings in your oil so
> it wouldn't be a bad idea to change it, though you should do that
> anyway, after having worked on the timing chain cover, etc.)
I dont have any oil TO change - the dipstick pulled dry! and I did not
drain the pan!
>
> Hopefully this was the source of your "diesel" problem. :-)
I would imagine so heh.
>
> I wonder how it happened though? I doubt the timing chain is adjustable -
> perhaps the sprockets are worn, or the chain and/or sprockets are the wrong
> size?
Well I have a pretty good idea - either the chain wasnt isntalled
propely for some reason - or the highly dishonest machine shop and
highly dishonest mechanic used poor quality parts or used parts in the
rebuild.
>
> Yeah, the oil pan is a real fun one to change, too. :-)
Great - just what I needed to hear - - I read the prodecure in the FSM -
but considering you did it on the Ram, any tips? The gasket still solid
no leaks?
>
> On my 440, what I did was to hit both the crank's nose and the inside
> of the vibration dampener with some 400 grit sandpaper just to be sure
> they were both clean and smooth then tapped the dampener in place with a
> rubber mallet. You will probably need to torque down the crank bolt
> afterwards (I'm not sure what the spec is, should be in your FSM) which
> can be a bit tricky because the engine will spin. If the oil pan is off,
> you can stick a wooden hammer handle up into the crank to keep it from
> spinning. What I did was to thread a bolt into one of the crank pulley
> holes in the dampener, and attached a chain from it to the frame or k
> member to prevent the engine from spinning while I torqued it down.
I almost posted to the list to ask how the hell you are supposed to
remove the pullys and the crank bolt - when the engine spins - till I
figured out I could jam a hand wrench through a slot in the dampener and
it would catch and hold the thing still when I was undoing the bolts...
it worked. I tried it with a screw driver first - - needless to say I
am one screw driver less than I was before - it shattered LOL. I like
your idea about the bolt and the chain - I think I'll do that when I
tighten it down.
>
> I'm assuming your motor has a slot in the crank nose with a woodruff
> key that goes in it - make sure that's in place before you reinstall the
> lower sprocket or vibration dampener... That is what allows the crank
> pulley, vibration dampener, cam and valvetrain to move, so leaving that
> little guy out could destroy your engine. If you weren't expecting it
> to be there, it could be easy to have it fall out, not notice, and
> reassemble without re-installing it.
>
The crank does have a squared tab prodruding out from it yes. I didnt
notice anything falling out when I removed it - and I'm not quite sure
what a woodruff key is - but when I go back out there I'll check it out.
-- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Terrible Tom"It's a living thing... It breathes, it eats, ...and it hates..."
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