Yes, for each braking surface, and you would be correct if it were solid, but it isn't.
As cast, there are two braking surfaces (platters) on each rotor separated by a air gap. Turning a warped rotor cuases varying thicknesses in each platter, even though mic'ing the rotor would show a consistent thickness from outside surface to outside surface, measuring each platter would show variances. Is it enough to cause a problem? I don't know, it probably depends on how much you have to take off.
FWIW, I have had two offers to turn the rotors, so I agree with you they can be turned. I also recall reading something from PowerSlot about turning them.
Finally, I did not spray the calipers, so I am sorry if I misled you in an earlier post. I used 'caliper' hi-temp paint and brushed it on as per the instructions. I did not get it on the seals or pistons - at least not intentionally - but therein could be the issue.
A friend suggested I could put in a feeler gauge to see if there is a gap between the pad and disc when parked. That might work unless it were a high part of the rotor.
Thanks,
BTC
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Barnes [mailto:barnesrv@attbi.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 7:52 AM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: DML: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: Warped PowerSlot Rotors
The rotors have a specified thickness that they can be turned down and still
work fine. It is usually stamped on the rotor and is a common practice.
Turning them makes them flat again and consistent. They would not be
thicker in one place and thinner in another..
Granted, they can be safely painted, but Brembo and Stillen do not just
spray paint on the pistons and seals as you likely did. In that case, paint
is a very bad thing.
Rascal
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