RE: Re: M-1 Intake gains?

From: Rick Barnes (barnesrv@attbi.com)
Date: Tue Apr 01 2003 - 14:48:03 EST


I was going to bid too Ken, but go for it, I think anything under $325 is
likely a good deal.

Rascal

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of
kenallgood@cox.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 1:03 PM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: Re: Re: DML: M-1 Intake gains?

Yup, picked up a nice Torque Wrench when I was checking out the rockers on
my Probe, and had to use it to install the studs for my 1.7 rockers on the
Dakota.. Love that Torque wrench :)

Actually, I was thinking about buying that intake that is on ebay right now
(ends today), trying to decide if I want to buy that one or not. Thanks for
the input (u 2 ray)

Ken Allgood
97 CC SLT 5.2L

>
> From: jon@dakota-truck.net
> Date: 2003/04/01 Tue PM 12:35:44 EST
> To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
> Subject: Re: DML: M-1 Intake gains?
>
>
> kenallgood@cox.net wrote:
> [...]
> : It's my understanding that to do the Belly pan gasket, you have to
remove the intake manifold etc, right (not sure exactly what the belly pan
gasket is, just how to tell if it's blown..hehe)? If so, figured since
while it's apart, might as well put a better intake manifold on....
Especially if I get a good deal :)
>
>
> That is correct - to fix the belly pan gasket, the entire intake
> manifold must be removed.
>
>
> :What are the pros and cons with going this route?? Thanks
>
>
> The pros are no more belly pan problems, increased performance and
> fuel economy.
>
> The cons are a higher cost, and depending on the emissions situation
> where you live, if a visual inspection is required, there might be a
> problem passing the visual portion of the emissions test.
>
> Regarding the cost, be aware of the little "extras" which can add up.
> The manifold itself is around 60-75% of your total expense. The 2bbl
> (P5007398 for '92-95 or P5007852 for '96+) is around $330 and the
> 4bbl (P5249816) is about $240. Don't forget to add in the cost of an
> installation kit; Mopar makes one for the 2bbl (P5007638) which is
> about $60. Mopar does not have a 4bbl installation kit so you will
> need to fabricate it yourself or purchase an aftermarket one, such
> as the one I make at steigerperformance.com (shameless plug) ;-)
> Figure on $70-90 for that, depending on your truck's model year and
> options. You will also need an intake gasket kit (4897383AC) which
> is $20-30 (but you would need that even if you were just reinstalling
> your stock intake manifold). Since you've got high mileage, plan on
> spending the $5-10 on a new bypass hose (H0063735). If your truck is
> a 1995 or older, and you are installing the 4bbl intake, you would
> need a new exhaust manifold EGR gasket (53010000) ($2) for the blockoff
> plate, and if it is a '92-95 and you are installing the 2bbl, you would
> also need a new intake manifold EGR gasket (sorry, I don't have a part
> number on this one, I think its a few dollars). You can probably
> re-use your throttle body gasket, but if not a new one is only $2
> (53030541). If you are installing the 2bbl, I believe your current
> thermostat and thermostat housing will swap right over, but if you are
> installing the 4bbl, you will need a new thermostat (about $5-10 at any
> parts store) and a thermostat housing (P4286759) which is $10-15. In
> either case, plan on spending a few cents on a thermostat gasket.
> (All part numbers listed above are Mopar.)
>
> Don't forget the RTV, thread locker, and anti-sieze. ($10-15)
>
> So, all total, you would probably be looking at about $440 to install
> the 2bbl and around $385 to install the 4bbl, and about $50 to to
> re-install your stock intake. Keep in mind that none of the prices
> I have listed include shipping, so plan on that, or tax if you will be
> purchasing them locally. Mail order is probably the cheapest route, and
> if you can order everything at once from one source you can probably keep
> the shipping costs to a minimum. (You will still need to go to the
> parts store for RTV, the thermostat, etc.) Also, the prices listed
> were about what you could expect to pay from a retailer; if you find
> a used intake on e-bay or something, you can obviously do it for less.
>
> An optional step, with whichever intake you install would be to
> hit it with some clear, high temp spray paint to ward off corrosion
> and keep it looking nice.
>
> I may have overlooked a couple of items (like assuming that you
> have access to a torque wrench) but that should give you a decent
> idea of what is involved. I hope it helps!
>
> --
>
> -Jon-
>
> .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com
------.
> | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL
|
> | 70 Cuda, 90 Dak 'vert, 92 Ram 4x4, 96 Dak, 96 Intruder 1400, 96 FireFly
|
> `------------------------------------------ http://www.jonsteiger.com
----'
>



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