i read another e-mail about not having to remove the fuel lines... so i
don't know... advance auto parts didn't have the wrench. i'll probably
stop by murray's and check too. i wouldn't mind buying that kind of stuff.
i'll probably need it again sometime... that is a good idea to change the
other valvecover gasket. it would be much easier at that point... i don't
know about the rockers. i only do repairs to keep this truck going. not
into wasting money on performance parts on a V6. it will never be fast
unless i dump a lot of money into it. it has 127k miles and the paint is
peeling everywhere... that's why i have my 95 with a 360... thanks again..
Mike K
94 SLT,CC,239,2wd,auto
95 Sport,RC,360,5-speed
http://www.hornok.com/zig
>From: "Josh Battles" <jbattles@bankfinancial.com>
>Reply-To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
>To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
>Subject: Re: DML: belly pan job saturday
>Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 11:19:26 -0500
>
>Mike,
>I think you might just be able to get the fuel lines off with a flare nut
>wrench. take a screwdriver and releive the pressure from the schrader on
>the fuel rail first. I've taken fuel lines off and on all the time and
>have
>never had to use a "special" tool of any kind. I've never done this on a
>dodge though... I'm a fox body mustang convert...those are way easy to
>work
>on. (they have to be, they're fords)
>
>as far as draining the radiator, you just need to drain enough out of it so
>that the coolant level is lower than the highest point of the engine block,
>otherwise it will spew all over when you pop that keg of an intake off the
>motor.
>
>Valve covers would be optional, but it will definately make things easier
>the less stuff you have on the engine. However, as long as you're taking
>things apart, this might be a good time to put those rr's on there, or do
>some other performance mods. I mean, you're already in there.....
>
>Good luck!
>
>--
>- Josh
>Lowered 2000 Dakota CC 3.9L
>
>
>""mike kulczycki"" <dakota1994@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>news:Law10-F117tox7nyeKz0001344e@hotmail.com...
> >
> > thanks for the tips. i will make sure and pick all that stuff up. i
>have
> > some of it... i just replaced the upper and lower hoses. i was
>actually
> > going to do the heater hoses. i have that already. so perfect time to
>do
> > it. the valve cover gasket on the driver side, i just replaced last
>year.
> > with the good steel insert. the other wasn't leaking so i didn't
>replace
> > it. do i need to remove the valve covers?? or is it just to make
>things
> > easier.. the antifreeze was just changed, so i am going to try and save
>it.
> > do i need to drain the whole radiator?? i was looking at it and
>thinking
> > i don't need to drain the whole thing... not sure though... i just did
>an
> > oil change also, but i will do another... the cap and rotor were just
>done.
> > wires are good. plugs were just replaced... i have done a bunch of
>work
> > to it in the past few monthes... i will make sure to check the water
>pump
> > also...
> > thanks for the help. and where would i get a fuel disconnect tool??
>auto
> > parts store?? i'll have to look...
> >
> > Mike K
> > 94 SLT,CC,239,2wd,auto
> > 95 Sport,RC,360,5-speed
> > http://www.hornok.com/zig
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >From: Patrick and Kelly Engram <patrickandkelly@erols.com>
> > >Reply-To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> > >To: DML <dml@dakota-truck.net>
> > >Subject: DML: belly pan job saturday
> > >Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 10:32:51 -0400
> > >
> > >
> > >Sounds like you're getting parts ready for your belly pan job Saturday.
> > >Here's some things to remember.
> > >
> > >Change oil and filter in case antifreeze gets into motor doing job
> > >2 Gallons antifreeze unless you just changed it and you keep the
>drained
> > >stuff clean.
> > >How are your radiator hoses? Upper has to come off, lower is right
>there
> > >and easily accessible. Same with heater hoses.
> > >Small tube of black rtv silicone-to hit the corners of the intake
> > >Do you have a fuel line disconnect tool? You're probably gonna need
>one!
> > >Speaking of cap/wires-good shape? How about the plugs, pcv valve,
>belt?
> > >Get a good set of valve cover gaskets-Rubber with steel shim, dont use
> > >cork-that's outdated technology
> > >Get a can of intake cleaner-clean the throttle body, iac motor and
>passage,
> > >and follow tsb on cleaning inside of combustion chamber
> > >You need a 3/8" drive torque wrench due to the low torque values
>required
> > >Get a throttle body gasket
> > >Make sure you disconnect the battery!
> > >Fender covers!
> > >Loc-tite
> > >Parts cleaner-get a can or 2 to clean everything up with
> > >Check the water pump before you start-any signs of weeping just put a
>new
> > >one on and also replace the large bypass hose that hooks to the top of
> > >it-this, like some of the other stuff above, is easy to do now with
> > >everything apart.\
> > >
> > >
> > >That should be enough to get you in trouble...
> > >Patrick
> > >
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
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>
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