So I would assume the engine weight would compensate for the difference
between the front & rear to level it out??
-- Gary Hedlin President Hedlin Web Designs http://www.hedlin.net "Patrick Delgado" <dadoctah@vitelcom.net> wrote in message news:BB16FF38.A670%dadoctah@vitelcom.net... > > 1. 2/3 and 2/4 mean it will be lowered 2" in front and 3" in back or 2" in > front and 4" in back respectively. > > 2. If tires are 2" shorter, truck will be 1" closer to the ground and the > space between tire and fender will increase by 1". > > 3. My sister used Western Chassis on her truck. No problems. > > > -- --Patrick Delgado > 2000 Dakota RC 5.9 R/T; 9 psi Powerdyne w/ 7-rib pulley, Gatorback belt, F&B > stage I TB, TV cable adj., Homebrewed K&N 0920 behind foglight, MAP boost > bypass, IAT relocation, MSD6BTM, MSD 8.5 superconductors, 3923's, MP > computer, NO CAT, katbox, full Hotchkis kit, Bilsteins, 255/50 kuhmo's and > 275/50 nitto's, powerslots/QS pads, Jason cap. In possession but not in > position; Belly pan plate and traction bars. > > > > > on 6/19/03 4:01 AM, Gary Hedlin at ghedlin@theramp.net wrote: > > > > > I've decided to lower my dak about 3 inches, but I have a few questions > > about the kits do so... > > > > 1. The kits are listed like 2-3 and 2-4....how does an idiot like me > > determine the overall inches it will be lowered?? > > > > 2. Most likely I want to be 3 inches lower...but the height of my new tires > > is 2 inches shorter than the stock 215/75/15's. Would this be a factor in > > how low the final product will be?? > > > > 3. Has anyone used the Western Chassis lowering kits? Has anyone ran into > > any issues with them?? > > > > Thanks in Advance! >
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Feb 06 2004 - 11:46:28 EST