Another coil won't help is there isn't any voltage to it in the first place.
I'm pretty sure you have to check the voltage going into the coil while the
key is turned all the way in (like you're trying to start it) and not just with
it in the on position. Of course that will take 2 people.
James
In a message dated 7/6/2003 4:18:50 PM Eastern Standard Time,
barnesrv@comcast.net writes:
> I vote you try another coil, then the coil pickup, much cheaper.
>
> Rascal
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
> [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Bernd D.
> Ratsch
> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 5:08 PM
> To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> Subject: RE: DML: Help! Dead Dakota
>
>
> Yes, they do go bad and can fail like what you're describing.
>
> Replacements run about $290-$350 depending on dealer.
>
> - Bernd
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
> [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Ron
> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 1:51 PM
> To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> Subject: Re: DML: Help! Dead Dakota
>
>
>
> Replying to myself again.
>
> I tried the screwdriver stuck in the end of the coil wire close to the
> engine block. Nothing on either the old or new coil when cranking.
> Also tried the screwdriver direct from the top of the coil to near the
> block, no spark.
>
> I retested the voltage feeding into the coil taking each lead to ground,
> no voltage.
>
> Haynes calls the electronic thingy a SMEC (Single Module Engine
> Controller). Do these things go bad? Are they expensive? How many vote
> that I give up and take it to a shop :)
>
> Thanks,
> -Ron M
> 95 V6 CC Sport
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ron" <menoldre@adelphia.net>
> To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 12:56 PM
> Subject: Re: DML: Help! Dead Dakota
>
>
> >
> >Okay, today's saga. I bought a voltmeter and checked the voltage at
> >the
> new
> >solder/splice and it read battery voltage, so it was a good solder
> >joint. I then put the two leads into the connector that feeds the
> >ignition coil. It read zero. I turned the ignition on it still read
> >zero. I had my wife crank the engine and it still read zero.
> >
> >Question, is the voltage to the ignition coil a constant voltage or is
>
> >it intermitent as fed by the PCM. If intermitent, or instantanious,
> >would a voltmeter set on DC volts read the voltage?
> >
> >Also, can you take the ignition coil and hold the top (where the spark
> plug
> >wire goes) close to ground/engine block and expect to see a spark when
>
> >cranking? I haven't done this yet, but it seems like you should be
> >able
> to
> >do this.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >-Ron M
> >95 CC V6 Sport
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Rick Barnes" <barnesrv@comcast.net>
> >To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
> >Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2003 9:08 PM
> >Subject: RE: DML: Help! Dead Dakota
> >
> >
> >>
> >>Coil or coil pickup, (in the distributor)...
> >>
> >>Rascal
> >>
> >>-----Original Message-----
> >>From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
> >>[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Ron
> >>Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2003 8:42 PM
> >>To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> >>Subject: Re: DML: Help! Dead Dakota
> >>
> >>
> >>Am I allowed to reply to my own message :)
> >>
> >>Hey, so I finally pulled one of the spark plugs, reattached the
> >>wire,
> >wife
> >>cranked the car and no spark. Went to the store, they thought
> >>ignition
> >coil
> >>and talked me out of cap and rotor. 33 dollars later, still no
> >>spark.
> >Next
> >>trip is cap, rotor, and wires I suppose.
> >>
> >>I am thinking I should also buy an ohmmeter and check power to the
> >>coil.
> >>
> >>Any other thoughts as it just started raining and the truck is
> >>outside,
> so
> >I
> >>am in.
> >>
> >>Thanks,
> >>-Ron M.
> >>95 CC V6 Sport
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Feb 06 2004 - 11:46:35 EST