Still having trouble. Sprayed the heck out of them and even tried my impact
wrench and no movement. Still trying though.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Vanditmars" <kylevan@telus.net>
To: <dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2003 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: DML: Cab Mounts
>
> Tom Byrne wrote:
> > I am installing new cab mounts on my 89 Shelby. What is the best way to
> > install these. Procedure is not in any of my books. Also, the Energy
> > Suspension mounts I have are slightly different than OEM
> >
>
> This is how I did it to my GenII, which is hopefully the same as a GenI
> (long/detailed).
>
> I'm gonna sound like Norm Abrahms or something, but WEAR EYE PROTECTION!
> There is seriously a lot of crud that comes falling out of these things.
>
> 1) Spray the living crap out of the mounts with a good penetrating
> solvent/oil/rust buster majig (someone on the list had the head of one
> of the bolts shear off, so use LOTS).
>
> 2) Let the stuff sit for 30 mins.
>
> 3) Spray some more solvent on there, and loosen all bolts off about
> halfway (you'll need a pretty long extension for the front ones).
>
> 4) Figure out which mounts go where (there should be a set that fits
> rather loosely together, and the others are snug, the loose ones go
> furthest rearward on a RC)
>
> 5) Remove all the bolts from ONE side. When you do, there will be metal
> cups that hold the bottom part of the bushing, keep those. I decided to
> scrape/sand them down and paint them with some tremclad rust-inhibiting
> paint.
>
> 6) Take a chunk of 2x4 about 3' long, and use it to jack up the body of
> the truck on the one side. I jacked from under the floorpan, seemed the
> logical place to me. Take all the top halves of the bushings off - whack
> 'em with a rubber mallet. There is another cup on the top (it looks
> kinda like a bunt cake pan) ;) Save those as well. They probably won't
> need paint, as mine were pretty much rust-free. When you remove the
> front mounts, pound them out with a big socket on an extension or a
> small chunk of wood and a hammer. Mine left little metal sleeves in the
> holes, you need to pound 'em out.
>
> 7) Slip the top section of bushing over the bunt cake pan, then put the
> protruding metal sleeve through the hole in the body mount on the frame.
> Lower the body back down onto the bushings. Take the lower section of
> bushing and the bottom metal cup (you'll notice one edge of the bushing
> is rounded, I put that facing into the cup, I don't know that it
> matters,) grease the bolt, and slip the bushing over the bolt, then
> partially reassemble - leave the bolts loosened.
>
> 8) Repeat steps 5 through 7 on the other side. When you lower the
> bugger back down, you can then go ahead and tighten everything down, and
> torque it all to 60 ft-lbs.
>
> 9) Go for a test drive, and admire the stiffness of it all. Then, drink
> a beer.
>
> One misc. point:
>
> I think ma' mopar used u-nuts on the body to secure it to the frame. If
> you go to stick the bolt back, but the hole is askew, try sticking a
> long screwdriver in there to fish the u-nut into place.
>
>
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