the new hub bearing is seeping grease? sounds like a faulty bearing assy to
me. I'd see if you can get another one. you didn't install it incorrectly
did you? it should just slide on and you torque a NEW nut to 185 ft/lbs...
I haven't had any problems whatsoever with mine. The only thing that
happened to me is that i replaced one and whatddya know, the other one needs
replacing about 5K miles later. bad luck i guess.
-- - Josh Lowered 2000 Dakota CC 3.9L""Sam Perez"" <samjperez@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:beumdi$dqo$1@bent.twistedbits.net... > > Hey you know what Josh , a few months ago I wrote about my front wheel hub > seeping grease from around the wheel hub nut. So I had to replace the entire > assembly. My hub was seized to the spindle. Well this weekend when replacing > rotors, the damm hub is seeping again. What do you make of that? The other > side is not doing that. What is up with that? > > -- > Sam Perez > > ""Josh Battles"" <jbattles@bankfinancial.com> wrote in message > news:beult0$c5u$1@bent.twistedbits.net... > > > > The only problem that I ran into is that a 7mm allen isn't all that > common. > > I've got 2 drawers full of different sized allen wrenches, some in > > triplicate... I had to to go the store after checking every one of the > > wrenches for size. I went from 6mm to 8mm skipping over 7mm, as most > allen > > sets will do. My truck was the same as sam's, but I don't know what year > > they went to a sealed hub bearing assy. > > > > -- > > - Josh > > Lowered 2000 Dakota CC 3.9L > > > > > > ""Sam Perez"" <samjperez@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > news:beuin1$5l4$1@bent.twistedbits.net... > > > > > > I just did my rotors this weekend, it is a no brainer. Not difficult at > > all. > > > Remove the wheels, duh => then using a #7 Allen wrench remove upper and > > > lower bolts for caliper, Once the caliper is removed all that holds the > > > rotors on is some cheesy little metal retaining rings on the wheel > studs, > > > once you remove those the rotors might be a little tough to get off an > so > > a > > > light tap will help and some WD-40. > > > > > > I used new rotors from O'Reily $23.99 a piece. Mine were turned once > > before > > > and thus were unturable. > > > > > > I had the same symptoms and now with new rotors braking is smooth. > > > > > > Hope this helps > > > Sam Perez > > > > > > ""Brian Tong"" <thedude807@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > news:BAY2-F137oQVOhP0NYK0000a16a@hotmail.com... > > > > > > > > If I were a betting man (and I am), I would say rotors, too. > > > > > > > > If you've done brakes before, you can do these. > > > > > > > > Brian > > > > '99 CC 4x4 5.2L > > > > > > > > > > > > >From: Ken Allgood <kenallgood@cox.net> > > > > >Reply-To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net > > > > >To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net > > > > >Subject: DML: Brake rotors Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 10:39:36 -0400 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >Hey yall, I think my brake rotors are going out on me. When > braking, > > > > >truck vibrates a good bit, espeically when I get below 30mph. If I'm > > > going > > > > >slow, say 10-15mph, and lightly braking, you can feel the brakes > > > grabbing, > > > > >then letting go, then grabbing, etc. Am I right that this would be > > the > > > > >rotors? If so, how difficult are they to replace? I have a > hydraulic > > > > >jack, stands, and all of the standard tools. Have done brakes once > > > before, > > > > >and that wasn't too difficult, but haven't done 'em on the dakota > > > > >before.... Thought I might do 'em to save a trip to the shop. > > > Suggestions > > > > >on some good brakes and where to get 'em? > > > > > > > > > >Ken Allgood > > > > >97 CC SLT 5.2L > > > > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > > > Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. > > > > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Feb 06 2004 - 11:46:36 EST