I'm not saying that it would. It's just that it's harder to match the wires up properly by just splicing in. With the wiring harness you can buy, the wires are color coded (purple & purple/black is one speaker, grey & grey/black is another speaker, etc). Makes it so the colors match the colors coming out of the head unit, hard to miss something not wired up right then. Also gives you more length of wire to use and makes it easier to go back to factory if so desired. I've spliced into my dads Plymouth Sundance before, and I never did get it working properly (actually, it was spliced into already). I have my FSM at home, and it might have the layout of the wires so I can let you know which wire is the postive/negative for each speaker. Not sure if the FSM has that info or not.
Ken Allgood
97 CC SLT 5.2L
>
> From: "Brian Tong" <thedude807@hotmail.com>
> Date: 2003/07/17 Thu AM 11:46:20 EDT
> To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> Subject: Re: DML: Help w/ aftermarket stereo install!!
>
>
> I just spliced in, same as I always do. But how could that cause a complete
> loss of continuity in the speaker leads? All FOUR speaker leads!
>
>
> >From: Ken Allgood <kenallgood@cox.net>
> >Reply-To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> >To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> >Subject: Re: DML: Help w/ aftermarket stereo install!!
> >Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 8:15:39 -0400
> >
> >
> >Did you buy a wiring harness from Circuit city to plug into the factory
> >wiring harness, or did you just splice up the factory harness?
> >
> >Ken Allgood
> >97 CC SLT 5.2L
> >
> > >
> > > From: "Brian Tong" <thedude807@hotmail.com>
> > > Date: 2003/07/17 Thu AM 12:11:33 EDT
> > > To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> > > Subject: DML: Help w/ aftermarket stereo install!!
> > >
> > >
> > > I don't get it. I'v put a million stereo's in a million different cars,
> >and
> > > I can't get this one to work!! It's on my '99 with factory cd player.
> > >
> > > Here's the deal. I am installing a Pioneer 5500. I already had a
> >pioneer
> > > 200w amp powering a 10" sub. Should be real straight forward. But I
> >get
> > > all the wires hooked up and there is no sound at all coming from ANY of
> >my
> > > door/rear speakers. The head unit powers right up, the amp turns on,
> >and
> > > the sub hits nice and clean, but NONE of the door/rear speakers are
> >making a
> > > sound.
> > >
> > > So I'm frustrated thinking I got a bum head unit. Just for kicks I grab
> >the
> > > speaker leads off of the sub and run the speaker wires from my amp to
> >the
> > > speaker wires in the dash. I KNOW the amp is working, I KNOW there is
> >sound
> > > coming out of it, I can hear it. But when I put the leads from the amp
> >to
> > > the door speaker wire, nothing happens. No sound.
> > >
> > > Here's the other thing that's got me. What do the "PARK" and "ANT" wires
> >do?
> > > I'm looking at the chrysler head unit and there is two little diagrams
> >on
> > > it listing the wires coming out of it. It reads:
> > >
> > > Feed connector:
> > > (bat) (acc) (ill) (park) (rf-) (lf-) (mute)
> > >
> > > speaker connector:
> > > (rr-) (lr-) (rf+) (lf+) (rr+) (lr+) (ant)
> > >
> > > there is no wire coming out of the (mute) slot because I don't have a
> >mute
> > > button. I know what all the other things are, but what is "park" and
> >"ant".
> > > I assume "ant" means antenna, but it has a regular style antenna
> > > connection in the back, so I don't get it.
> > >
> > > Any ideas?
> > >
> > > Brian
> > >
> > > _________________________________________________________________
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> >
>
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Feb 06 2004 - 11:46:37 EST