Sorry I wasn't following this thread all the way through, but if you're
replacing both the head unit and the factory amp, there is some jumpering
you'll need to do at the amp stock amp location in order to make use of the
factory wiring. Sounds like you're already beyond that, but something for
future info.
Somebody with one of those installer CDs could probably list the jumpers
needed.
Bob
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
> [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net]On Behalf Of Josh
> Battles
> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 12:05 PM
> To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
> Subject: Re: DML: Re: head unit is fine, no continuity in wires
>
>
>
> ""Brian Tong"" <thedude807@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:BAY2-F92Tol3TYlUFdt0000b943@hotmail.com...
> >
> > How did you get the wires into the doors? Any shortcuts?
> It's starting
> to
> > look like I'll be running wire. I just don't get it, what could I
> possibly
> > have disconnected/cut/screwed up?
> >
> > Sheesh. I'm just glad this is my own vehicle and not a customer.
>
> Well, through creative use of a coat hanger and electrical
> tape I was able
> to pull them through those little shorkel thingies that go
> from the door to
> the cab. I mounted my amp under the dash (don't ask, lots of
> creativity
> used here) and then ran the wires along the top of the carpet
> to the sides
> of the truck, then back. there's a hole in the cab where you
> can pull the
> stuff through. I had to actually remove the snorkels to find
> out where
> everything went. You can also use a continuity tester to
> firure out which
> wires go where. just clip one of the speaker leads, then
> touch all the
> other ones in the radio opening and see where you get the
> noise and repeat
> for each one...it's worked with good success for me in the past.
>
> --
> - Josh
> Lowered 2000 Dakota CC 3.9L
>
>
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