*duhh* C-Clamp.. About the only basic tool I DON'T have :-)
Well, I put the tire back on after testing the brake pedal a little bit
(which seemed fine)... Took it for about a 5 min drive, and didn't notice
anything abnormal with the brakes... I'll get the C-clamp and probably
actually do the swap on Saturday after I help a friend move.. Thanks for
the tips!
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAKSY" <rsmith13@nycap.rr.com>
To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 9:17 PM
Subject: DML: Re: Bleeding brakes
>
> Hey, Ken.
>
>
> <snip> Ok, question here. Was about to undertake replacing my rotors &
pads
> when I
> > realized that I need to bleed the brakes when doing this. What's
entitled
> > when bleeding the brakes? Just want to make sure I can do it before I
> > undertake doing the brakes, since I need the Dakota in the morning.
> Which,
> > I'm thinking I'm already too late, because I started lossening the brake
> > hose line in the front right, and tightened it back down once I started
> > losing brake fluid... I'm guessing that means I now have air bubbles in
> my
> > brake line now, and I have to bleed it either way now???<snip>
>
> You really don't need to bleed the brakes to change the rotors & pads, but
> you probably iallowed air into the line when you broke the line loose. You
> should be able to tell if you've re-sealed the system & pump the brakes.
If
> they're spongey, you've got air - if not you're good to go.
> If you don't have air, open the master cylinder & put you big ole c-clamp
on
> the outer pad to compress the caliper. Do it SLOWLY so you don't bubble
any
> fluid onto your paint. Then change the pads & rotor. Repeat on other
side...
> If they're spongey, You're probably gonna need another set of feet to
help.
> You'll need a can of brake fluid, a CLEAN clear jar & some rubber tubing -
a
> size that will barely fit over the bleeder fitting.
> Fill the jar halfway with the new fluid. Put the hose on the bleeder
> fitting & into the fluid. It has to STAY in the fluid at all times!
> With the calipers on the rotors & the brake pads in & with the master
> cylinder closed, have someone else pump the brake pedal til it's firm (or
at
> least less spongey), & HOLD THE PEDAL. Release the bleeder with a small
> wrench and watch the jar for air. The pedal will go to the floor. Close
the
> bleeder & have the brake pedal pumped again & repeat until the brake
pedal
> is firm. Word of caution. After each time you close the bleeder, check the
> master cylinder to make sure the level is up.
> When you feel that you have the correct firmness in the pedal, top off the
> master cykinder & seal it back up...
> HTH,
>
> Bob Smith (DAKSY2K on AIM)
> Averill Park, NY
> 2K DAK SY CC Sport + V6 4X4 5 Speed
>
> WebPage URL: http://home.nycap.rr.com/daksy/
>
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