Re: Installing Aftermarket Power Locks in my Cap

From: Michael Maskalans (mike-lists@tepidcola.com)
Date: Thu Jul 24 2003 - 01:22:58 EDT


On Wednesday, July 23, 2003, at 05:03 PM, Robert Schultz wrote:

> I've got a set of aftermarket power locks. I'd like to install them in
> the
> cap so when I lock my truck I don't have to wander around the back and
> double check that everythings locked - not to mention keeping my hands
> clean
> in the winter.

sounds like a damn good idea to me. I might have to look into that,
but I don't know how I'd actuate the locks on my cap. I think I'd skip
using they keys at all and make up a locking cylinder for each side. I
wouldn't need the catches, then, either.... but I'd need to have them
spring loaded to latch after locking. and I'd still need a handle.
damnit, you got me thinking about more automation for my truck!
>
> To do this I need to tap into the wires for the OE power doors locks.
> Can
> anyone tell me where the best place to do this? And while your at it,
> which
> wire?

<thinking>
well, they live in the doors, obviously. they also have to cross the
front of the truck to make one door's switch talk to the other, as well
as being able to be triggered by the key fob.
</thinking>

<reading>
it looks like the door switches as well as the remote keyless actuate a
relay that kicks 12v to both door solenoids. to un/lock it reverses
polarity, so it still uses 2 wires. what I would do is find the output
from this relay (which lives in the driver's side fuse box), tap it,
and run wires to the back of the truck. if your 'cap' is a topper, and
you have a CHMSL mounted, I'd think it would be best to follow those
wires up into the shell.

the wires on the lock solenoids are OR/BK and PK/BK 16ga (un/lock,
respectively). they run from the central timer module to each door.
(one pair comes from the Big Black Mystery Box and is spliced somewhere
to each side of the truck)

if you would prefer to just have the trigger voltage and wire your own
relay, look for the same layout of wires in PK/VT and LG/BK 16 ga
(un/lock, respectively), and a red wire should always be hot (yellow is
accessory hot, in case you care)
</reading>

<detailing
OR="orange";
PK="pink";
LG="light green";
BK="black">
<!-- */BK being with black tracer, of course -->

<credits src="page 12-62 in my Haynes repair manual">

<dreaming>
I think in my case this will wait for my roof rack and auxillary
lighting, which I'll want to pipe into the front of the shell, and run
from there in the mounting tubes to the back of the truck. just b/c
I'm being long winded, this is the sort of roof rack I'll do when I get
the chance (with the added benefit of making what I just said make
sense).

<http://dodgetrucks.org/cgi-bin/index.pl?photo=7176>
<http://www.montypics.com/pic.php?url=/Spawn_X/2003-06-11/
1055382467_DSC00561.jpg>
</dreaming>
</pseudo-html kick>

--
Michael Maskalans             <http://mike.tepidcola.com/>
Apple Campus Rep  -  ClassTech Consultant  -  Printer Tech
mobile.612.618.4652  campus.585.274.2246  fax.954.697.0487



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