Sounds pretty fishy to me that you have that list of codes and they tell you
it's the timing chain.
Before doing anything I would have the codes run again. Autozone and places
like that will do it for you for free. Also, This is by no means exact but if
you get the timing mark on the balancer somewhere on the degree markings on the
cover, then remove the distributor cap. Turn the crank back and forth until you
see the rotor move in the distributor. If the slack is any more than a 3 or 4
degrees on the timing marks then you could have a worn timing set.
I looked at my Haynes 97-99 Dakota manual and your truck does not have the OHC
motor (I do not know what year they cahnged but it was prior to 97). It also
states that you must drop the oil pan to replace the tensioner (I was suprised
that it even had a tensiner, most OHV motors do not), that may be the reason
for the higher cost. Also, the tensioner has a lock and unlock postion. Could
be the dealer forgot to unlock it after installing the new set and now it worn
enough to cause a problem.
I would run the codes first. Also, if you get a code indicating a bad sensor
before running out and getting a new one pull the connectors and clean them.
One of the FSM for an old Daytona I had stated that something like 80% of the
time a code is thrown for a bad sensor it's really a bad connection.
Dave Clement
99 SLT+ CC 4x4
In article <btut4t$ahv$1@bent.twistedbits.net>, bwgreen@ocean.otr.usm.edu
("Wilbur") writes:
> Hehe, yeah thats what I thought too....But the timing chain was replaced the
> first time by the dealer. At around 110,000 miles, it started having
> strange symptoms, it ran really rough, missing on the first cylinder. The
> first time this happened I took it to autozone and had them read the codes.
> Codes PO108, PO112, PO301, and PO320 came up (Map sensor voltage too high,
> air intake sensor voltage too low, cylinder 1 misfire, and No crank
> reference signal at PCM were the descriptions). All of the actual sensors
> tested fine according to the dealership, however, and they (Dodge) said it
> was the timing chain that went bad somehow.. So I had a new timing chain
> put in it and it was back to running like normal.
>
> Unfortunately, now at 160,000 miles, the same symptoms and error codes are
> occurring. This is why I think it is the timing chain--similarity of
> symptoms to the first timing chain replacement. I live a few states away
> from the place that did the first timing chain replacement or I would take
> it back to them and let them fix it...it shouldn't be going out again so
> soon. In lew of having yet another dealership do the work and charge me
> 500.00, I thought I might take a crack at it provided it is doable by
> someone of moderate mechanical ability. :)
>
> As for the engine, I don't think I have confused it with the 2.5 L OHC, but
> I could be wrong...My dakota is a 1998 4-cylinder 2.5L engine...is there a
> way to confirm whether or not it might be the OHC engine? I am open to
> suggestions on what else to check, if anyone has any other ideas or
> suggestions. Thanks.
>
> Wilbur
>
>
>
>
> <david.clement@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:btulqu$v33$1@bent.twistedbits.net...
> >
> > Gee, A timing chain and sprockets should be a life of the vehicle part. I
> would
> > be looking for why you are changing it for a second time (I had 250,000
> miles
> > on the timing chain and sprockets in my 89 V6 with no indication that it
> needed
> > to be replaced). I hope you have not confused the engine you have with the
> > older 2.5 OHC motor that has a timing belt that needs to be changed as a
> > maintainence item.
> >
> > In any case the Factory Service Manual, a Chiltons Manual or Haynes manual
> will
> > have adequate information to do the work. A Chiltons or Haynes should be
> > available at your local chain parts store such as Autozone.
> >
> > Dave Clement
> >
> >
> > In article <btuhe6$pt8$1@bent.twistedbits.net>, bwgreen@ocean.otr.usm.edu
> > ("Wilbur") writes:
> > >
> > > I would like to request your help for a min. Can anyone point me to the
> > > procedures to replacing the timing chain and sprockets and/or tensioner
> on
> > > my 1998 4-cylinder 2.5 liter dak? It was replaced once by the dealer at
> a
> > > high cost, so I would like to try it this time myself. Is there a good
> > > repair manual out there that covers this or a website maybe? thanks
> again
> > > for your time.
> > >
> > > Wilbur
> > >
> > >
>
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Sun Feb 01 2004 - 16:29:49 EST