That would be good. :) It would definitely make the job easier. I had
to order the valve springs...none of the local parts places or the dodge
dealership had any in stock...So the Dodge dealership is ordering some
from Dallas, I think.
FYI, when I started taking things apart, I noticed that the CCV vacuum
tube was broken...so I had the dealership order one of those too...they
had to order that little item from Detroit. :) I wonder why the 2.5L
have a CCV (Crank Case Ventilation) vacuum tube instead of a PCV valve
like the larger engines?
Oh well....supposedly all the parts will be in by next friday so I will
proceed at that time to replace the valve spring...Thanks for all the
help guys--Cross your fingers and say a prayer for me. Hopefully this
will bring my baby back to working order for a bit. You guys are really
a great bunch of people. :) I'll let you know how it goes. Have a
great weekend guys!
Wilbur
Aaron Wyse wrote:
> at TDC.. maybe 3/4 inch max.. just my ballpark guess.. The cyl head pockets
> can't be that big.
> Aaron
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wilbur" <bwgreen@ocean.otr.usm.edu>
> To: <dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 10:59 PM
> Subject: Re: DML: replacing timing chain on 1998 dakota 2.5 liter
>
>
>
>>Yeah I think I will start with replacing the one bad spring and go from
>>there...I wonder...at TDC, how far would the valve "fall" in if I were
>>to replace the spring and I was unable to keep hold of the valve stem?
>>Would it fall far enough in that I could not reach it or would enough of
>>the valve stem be sticking up to pull it back up? just curious.
>>
>>Wilbur
>>
>>
>>
>>Aaron Wyse wrote:
>>
>>>another way to hold the valve up is to fill the cylinder with a rope (at
>>>BDC) and then then give the crank a little bump to compress it a little.
>>>
>>>Personally.. I would just replace the one bad spring.. then do another
>>>compression test. If all is well. Drive it another 50K miles or so
>
> before
>
>>>I worry about anything else. Since a valve spring should not have
>
> broken in
>
>>>the first place, assume it as more of a fluke break than an actual high
>>>mileage problem. Make sure you do a couple of oil change fairlu close
>>>together.. just in case any particles of spring are circulating around
>
> in
>
>>>there.
>>>Otherwise.. The valve may have actually damaged something that will
>
> require
>
>>>more work. And you'll need to go in deeper.
>>>Also.. glad you found the problem
>>>Just my opinions.
>>>Aaron Wyse
>>>
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Wilbur" <bwgreen@ocean.otr.usm.edu>
>>>To: <dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
>>>Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 4:00 PM
>>>Subject: Re: DML: replacing timing chain on 1998 dakota 2.5 liter
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>You bet I will. :) Ok currently....I put cyl #1 to TDC and injected
>>>>air into sparkplug opening....heard air hissing in valve cover...So
>>>>removed valve cover, and wahlah, i see the first valve at the front of
>>>>the engine (facing the fan and radiator) has a busted spring. I am not
>>>>sure if that one is the intake or exhaust valve spring, just that it is
>>>>the first one in line. The valve has not dropped...it is still
>>>>attached. The valve still could have "kissed" the piston, so to speak.
>>>> So sounds like i need to replace that spring at the very least...and I
>>>>suppose I should replace the other one of the pair too? Should I
>>>>replace all the valve springs and and locks and retainers and valve stem
>>>>oil seals for all 4 cylinders or just for cyl #1?
>>>>
>>>>The push rods looked okay from cyl #1, not bent or anything and I have
>>>>the rockers, bridge and pivot assembly and bolts (also looked fine)
>>>>sitting in a box in the correct order to put back on.
>>>>
>>>>As for replacing the valve springs...from what i can see online, some
>>>>peeps recommend using air pressure via the spark plug hole to keep the
>>>>valve seated while taking off the spring....I don't have an air
>>>>compressor at all to maintain the recommended pressure (90psi) to keep
>>>>the valve seated. Any other recommendations to keep the valve seated
>>>>while I remove the spring? Could I tie some string to the valve stem
>>>>after I have it compressed to keep it from falling into the cylinder?
>>>>Oh and do the valve compressors you can get at autozone and O'reillys
>>>>work for this kind of job? Thanks.
>>>>
>>>>Wilbur
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Josh Battles wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>""Rick Barnes"" <barnesrv@comcast.net> wrote in message
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Josh,
>>>>>>
>>>>>>You blew a ring for that very reason..once you did the great valve
>
> job,
>
>>>>>you
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>increased the compression in the cylinder and the weakened rings could
>>>
>>>not
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>hold the increased compression..viola, broken rings...common, and your
>>>>>>advice is right on, (in my humble opinion). If you do a valve job, at
>>>>>
>>>>>least
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>replace the rings too.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Rascal
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>that's what my uncle told me... (ase master certified mechanic) after
>>>
>>>the
>>>
>>>
>>>>>fact, and while he was helping me replace the rings and smooth out the
>>>>>slight cylinder wall scoring. If I was gonna do it now, I'd do it all
>>>
>>>at
>>>
>>>
>>>>>once and save myself the extra headache later on.
>>>>>
>>>>>learn from our mistakes Wilbur! If you end up having to have valves
>>>
>>>done,
>>>
>>>
>>>>>do the rings now too so you don't have to do them later.
>>>>>
>>>>
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Sun Feb 01 2004 - 16:29:50 EST