nope, just pull the damper, the gasket kit comes with a small gasket and
instructions to replace the small part of the pan gasket.
BTW, if they have not yet updated their parts info, they MAY tell you they
do not have the parts, but they DO!
have them look up the needed parts for a 97 jeep wrangler.
SAME PARTS...
chain and sprockets was like $15 and Gasket kit was like $20 2 years ago
when I had done mine
Tony.
www.helptonyout.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Wilbur <bwgreen@ocean.otr.usm.edu>
To: <dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:31 AM
Subject: Re: DML: replacing timing chain on 1998 dakota 2.5 liter
>
> good point Tony....the parts are really cheap...probably a good idea
> too....next time I have a day or two free, I may just do it for the
> experience of it...at least if I do it, I will know it actually got done
> this time :)
>
> Wilbur
>
> PS. If I were to change the timing chain out....will I need to drop the
> oil pan too? I have noticed that the gasket sets have a separate gasket
> piece for where the oil pan is attached...so I am wondering if I will
> need to loosen it up to put the timing cover back on.
>
>
>
>
> Tony Troidl wrote:
>
> > I replaced mine at 180K and really had very little wear, but I had the
> > engine apart anyways, so I changed it... since it was only lilke $15 for
the
> > chain and gears at Autozone I figured why not...
> > Tony.
> >
> > www.helptonyout.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Wilbur <bwgreen@ocean.otr.usm.edu>
> > To: <dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
> > Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2004 5:52 PM
> > Subject: Re: DML: replacing timing chain on 1998 dakota 2.5 liter
> >
> >
> >
> >>Hey Guys,
> >>
> >>Just wanted to say thanks again. I replaced the broken valve spring and
> >>tested compression on the cylinder...it was around 150 psi...buttoned
> >>everything back up and she runs like a champ again. You guys saved me
> >>from the expense of a timing chain, sprockets and gaskets.
> >>
> >>BTW, out of curiosity, what is the average life of a timing chain on the
> >>4 cylinder 2.5L Daks? It seems to me it should have lasted more than
> >>100,000 miles (thats when it was changed out--supposedly had gone bad).
> >> I guess I could open it up and look at it...but how exactly would I
> >>tell wear on it? Looseness? Oh well, have a good weekend!
> >>
> >>Wilbur
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>Wilbur wrote:
> >>
> >>>That would be good. :) It would definitely make the job easier. I had
> >>>to order the valve springs...none of the local parts places or the
dodge
> >>>dealership had any in stock...So the Dodge dealership is ordering some
> >>>from Dallas, I think.
> >>>
> >>>FYI, when I started taking things apart, I noticed that the CCV vacuum
> >>>tube was broken...so I had the dealership order one of those too...they
> >>>had to order that little item from Detroit. :) I wonder why the 2.5L
> >>>have a CCV (Crank Case Ventilation) vacuum tube instead of a PCV valve
> >>>like the larger engines?
> >>>
> >>>Oh well....supposedly all the parts will be in by next friday so I will
> >>>proceed at that time to replace the valve spring...Thanks for all the
> >>>help guys--Cross your fingers and say a prayer for me. Hopefully this
> >>>will bring my baby back to working order for a bit. You guys are
really
> >>>a great bunch of people. :) I'll let you know how it goes. Have a
> >>>great weekend guys!
> >>>
> >>>Wilbur
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>Aaron Wyse wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>at TDC.. maybe 3/4 inch max.. just my ballpark guess.. The cyl head
> >>>>pockets
> >>>>can't be that big.
> >>>>Aaron
> >>>>
> >>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Wilbur"
<bwgreen@ocean.otr.usm.edu>
> >>>>To: <dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
> >>>>Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 10:59 PM
> >>>>Subject: Re: DML: replacing timing chain on 1998 dakota 2.5 liter
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>Yeah I think I will start with replacing the one bad spring and go
> >
> > from
> >
> >>>>>there...I wonder...at TDC, how far would the valve "fall" in if I
were
> >>>>>to replace the spring and I was unable to keep hold of the valve
stem?
> >>>>>Would it fall far enough in that I could not reach it or would enough
> >
> > of
> >
> >>>>>the valve stem be sticking up to pull it back up? just curious.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Wilbur
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Aaron Wyse wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>another way to hold the valve up is to fill the cylinder with a rope
> >>>>>>(at
> >>>>>>BDC) and then then give the crank a little bump to compress it a
> >>>>>>little.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Personally.. I would just replace the one bad spring.. then do
> >
> > another
> >
> >>>>>>compression test. If all is well. Drive it another 50K miles or so
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>before
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>>I worry about anything else. Since a valve spring should not have
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>broken in
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>>the first place, assume it as more of a fluke break than an actual
> >
> > high
> >
> >>>>>>mileage problem. Make sure you do a couple of oil change fairlu
close
> >>>>>>together.. just in case any particles of spring are circulating
> >
> > around
> >
> >>>>
> >>>>in
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>>there.
> >>>>>>Otherwise.. The valve may have actually damaged something that will
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>require
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>>more work. And you'll need to go in deeper.
> >>>>>>Also.. glad you found the problem
> >>>>>>Just my opinions.
> >>>>>>Aaron Wyse
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Wilbur"
> >
> > <bwgreen@ocean.otr.usm.edu>
> >
> >>>>>>To: <dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
> >>>>>>Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 4:00 PM
> >>>>>>Subject: Re: DML: replacing timing chain on 1998 dakota 2.5 liter
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>You bet I will. :) Ok currently....I put cyl #1 to TDC and
> >
> > injected
> >
> >>>>>>>air into sparkplug opening....heard air hissing in valve cover...So
> >>>>>>>removed valve cover, and wahlah, i see the first valve at the front
> >
> > of
> >
> >>>>>>>the engine (facing the fan and radiator) has a busted spring. I am
> >>>>>>>not
> >>>>>>>sure if that one is the intake or exhaust valve spring, just that
> >>>>>>>it is
> >>>>>>>the first one in line. The valve has not dropped...it is still
> >>>>>>>attached. The valve still could have "kissed" the piston, so to
> >>>>>>>speak.
> >>>>>>>So sounds like i need to replace that spring at the very
least...and
> >
> > I
> >
> >>>>>>>suppose I should replace the other one of the pair too? Should I
> >>>>>>>replace all the valve springs and and locks and retainers and valve
> >>>>>>>stem
> >>>>>>>oil seals for all 4 cylinders or just for cyl #1?
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>The push rods looked okay from cyl #1, not bent or anything and I
> >
> > have
> >
> >>>>>>>the rockers, bridge and pivot assembly and bolts (also looked fine)
> >>>>>>>sitting in a box in the correct order to put back on.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>As for replacing the valve springs...from what i can see online,
> >
> > some
> >
> >>>>>>>peeps recommend using air pressure via the spark plug hole to keep
> >
> > the
> >
> >>>>>>>valve seated while taking off the spring....I don't have an air
> >>>>>>>compressor at all to maintain the recommended pressure (90psi) to
> >
> > keep
> >
> >>>>>>>the valve seated. Any other recommendations to keep the valve
> >
> > seated
> >
> >>>>>>>while I remove the spring? Could I tie some string to the valve
> >
> > stem
> >
> >>>>>>>after I have it compressed to keep it from falling into the
> >
> > cylinder?
> >
> >>>>>>>Oh and do the valve compressors you can get at autozone and
> >
> > O'reillys
> >
> >>>>>>>work for this kind of job? Thanks.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>Wilbur
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>Josh Battles wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>""Rick Barnes"" <barnesrv@comcast.net> wrote in message
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>Josh,
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>You blew a ring for that very reason..once you did the great
valve
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>job,
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>>>>you
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>increased the compression in the cylinder and the weakened rings
> >>>>>>>>>could
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>not
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>hold the increased compression..viola, broken rings...common, and
> >>>>>>>>>your
> >>>>>>>>>advice is right on, (in my humble opinion). If you do a valve
> >>>>>>>>>job, at
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>least
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>replace the rings too.
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>Rascal
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>that's what my uncle told me... (ase master certified mechanic)
> >
> > after
> >
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>the
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>fact, and while he was helping me replace the rings and smooth out
> >>>>>>>>the
> >>>>>>>>slight cylinder wall scoring. If I was gonna do it now, I'd do it
> >>>>>>>>all
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>at
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>once and save myself the extra headache later on.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>learn from our mistakes Wilbur! If you end up having to have
> >
> > valves
> >
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>done,
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>do the rings now too so you don't have to do them later.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>
> >
>
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Sun Feb 01 2004 - 16:29:51 EST